Work jacket in blue-black wool-cotton-linen check

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Garment

£450.00

Four-button jacket, made in London, with a hand-woven blend of wool, cotton, and linen from Northern Ireland, a lining of melton from Yorkshire, and horn buttons from the Midlands.

More of this sort of thing

There's not many of these left, by the looks of it. Still, don't despair. Email info@sehkelly.com and perhaps something can be done about it.

Sizing

The jacket fits true to size, and so the mannequin — the most standard 38 in the world — wears S. The body is short, and its shape is fairly straight. The sleeves are narrow, and the cuffs tighten firmly around the wrist.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 17 18 19 20 21
Sleeve length 24 24½ 25 25 25½
Back length 27½ 28 28½ 29 29½
This cloth — this cloth is really something else. It is hand-woven on an old wooden loom, and is a base of black cotton and linen checked through with baubles of blue wool. It is very thick, hard-wearing, but with a natural springiness that makes it far from constricting. It is like a workwear cloth of the fairly near future.
The jacket is a short and casual one, with four buttons. It has a stand collar, which starts about an inch high at the front, and rises gently around the back of the neck.
The buttons on the jacket are horn, and are dark in colour and matte in finish. Being as they are an entirely natural thing, these buttons, each one looks a little different to the next, varying in tone and hue. The same goes for the little backing buttons (below-left) which support each of the buttons on the front.
The jacket has five pockets. First are two open patch-pockets running across the front. Then there is a smaller patch at the chest. Inside, meanwhile, are two jet pockets (on which more below) — one of which is stitched through to the front.
The sleeves are a standard sort of width, but they taper sharply at the elbow and fasten snugly around the wrist with gusset-type cuffs.
The jacket has two medium-size jet pockets on the inside — one on each side.
The jacket is half-lined in the body with a mid-grey wool-melton from West Yorkshire — and with a little pleat down the centre — and the sleeves are lined with a lightweight cotton.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1" and, very slim as he is, is wearing size S. He has a chest of 38, and a weight of 11 ½ stone.

Makers of

The jacket is made by an outerwear factory in north-east London. It is specialised skill, assembling jackets from thick and heavy cloth. The idea is to make something which truly lasts — all highly durable making techniques, heavy fusing, and turned seams — without the result being stiff or bulky.
Mourne Textiles rests in the foothills the Mourne Mountains in Northern Ireland. It was established in 1949 by a textile designer of (appropriately) the mid-century school, and work and weaving there today is led by her daughter — herself a master-weaver — and the generations thereof.
They work with hand-operated looms — the first assembled half a century ago by the local coffin-maker. As is the way with such things, this imparts great character and pleasingly imperfect artisan qualities. Combined with their slubby custom yarn, you get some of the most eyebrow-raising materials in the Isles.
The melton lining is woven by a mill in West Yorkshire. Tightly woven from 100% new wool, and with a smooth but pleasingly textured finish, it is for all intents and purpose a top-grade outerwear fabric — but is used on the inside here because it is warm and surprisingly friendly on the skin.
The horn buttons are cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain. It continues a tradition in the Midlands, first linked to the area's meat markets, in the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."