Work jacket in coal grey wool-angora twill

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Four-button jacket, made in London, with a blend of lambswool and angora from Wales, a lining of wool-melton from West Yorkshire, and dark horn buttons from the West Midlands.


The jacket fits true to size, and so the mannequin — the most standard 38 in the world — wears S. The body is short, and its shape is fairly straight. The sleeves are narrow, and the cuffs tighten firmly around the wrist.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 19 20 21 22 23
Shoulder 17 18 19 20 21
Sleeve length 24 24½ 25 25 25½
Back length 27½ 28 28½ 29 29½
The jacket is made with a blend of lambswool and angora, woven in south-west Wales. It is a warm but lightweight cloth of cloud-like buoyancy and comfort. There's a fluffiness to it, and a softness, such that if you close your eyes and give it a stroke, you'd swear it was a cashmere sweater.
The jacket is a short and casual one, with four buttons. It has a stand collar, which starts about an inch high at the front, and rises gently around the back of the neck.
The buttons on the jacket are horn, and are dark in colour and matte in finish. Being as they are an entirely natural thing, these buttons, each one looks a little different to the next, varying in tone and hue. The same goes for the little backing buttons (below-left) which support each of the buttons on the front.
The jacket has five pockets. First are two open patch-pockets running across the front. Then there is a smaller patch at the chest. Inside, meanwhile, are two jet pockets (on which more below) — one of which is stitched through to the front.
The sleeves are a standard sort of width, but they taper sharply at the elbow and fasten snugly around the wrist with gusset-type cuffs.
The jacket has two medium-size jet pockets on the inside — one on each side.
The jacket is half-lined in the body with a mid-grey wool-melton from West Yorkshire — and with a little pleat down the centre — and the sleeves are lined with a lightweight cotton.

As worn

The gent here is 5'9" and is wearing size S. He has a chest size of 38", and there are reports — neither confirmed nor denied — that he weighs in just below 12 stone.

Makers of

The jacket is made by an outerwear factory in north-east London. It is specialised skill, assembling jackets from thick and heavy cloth. The idea is to make something which truly lasts — all highly durable making techniques, heavy fusing, and turned seams — without the result being stiff or bulky.
What the Welsh don't know about wool isn't worth knowing. Sheep-rearing sorts began to bring fleece into the wooded valley of the old mill two-hundred years ago. It was for weaving blankets back then. Now it is blankets plus assorted other woollens — all notable for superior softness and skin-friendliness.
The melton lining is woven by a mill in West Yorkshire. Tightly woven from 100% new wool, and with a smooth but pleasingly textured finish, it is for all intents and purpose a top-grade outerwear fabric — but is used on the inside here because it is warm and surprisingly friendly on the skin.
The horn buttons are cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain. It continues a tradition in the Midlands, first linked to the area's meat markets, in the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."