Fit true to marked size. Can be tried for size at the workshop (information at the bottom of the page). Note: the hem has been hand-felled so the leg length may be increased by up to 1.5 in.
The trousers are made from grey-green wool tweed from a mill in West Yorkshire: a thick, hard-wearing cloth, and a warm one. Up close it can be seen that it comprises many shades of grey and muted green. The trousers have a traditional rise, and legs that taper very slightly from knee.
At the centre-back waist of the trousers is a small curved notch detail (left). They have curved quarter-top pockets at the front (below-left) which have an inch of wool facing, to keep the lining out of sight. At the back are button-through welt-pockets (below-right).
The trousers have a button-through fly of four buttons (right). The buttons are all real horn, matte tortoiseshell in colour. Being real — as in natural, not made of plastic — all have slightly different colouring and flecks.
The legs are front half-lined to the knee with lightweight black cotton. This lining makes the trousers cooler on the upper leg, makes them harder wearing, and helps them hold their shape over time — so less of the usual bagginess at the knee. The internal waist-band is also lined with off-white cotton.
The chap here is 5ft 10in (177cm) and wears a size small.
The wool comes from a mohair mill in West Yorkshire. It is one of only a handful of makers in the world with the accreditation to work with the finest varieties of yarn. Every step of its transformation into luxury cloth — dyeing, blending, weaving, finishing — takes place under the one 1800s-built roof.
The horn buttons are made — that’s cut, dyed, and polished — by the last remaining manufacturer of horn and leather button in England. Based in the West Midlands, the factory has been in the hands of the same family since opening in the mid-1800s: five generations of top-quality button-making know-how.
The trousers are made and finished in a small factory in North London, which excels with outerwear, shirts, and trousers. It’s a place of meticulous cutters, unflappable seamsters and seamstresses, and a well cared-for and marvellous-looking contraption for making button-holes.