Words

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Some Ventiles, pt. 5
30th March 2017
The newest Ventile in the world, debuting here in the form of the balmacaan, is so fine you’ve written on paper thicker.  "Some Ventiles, pt. 5"Read more
Male pattern boldness, pt. 3
22nd March 2017
There's no escaping the pressure that comes with giving a garment a name like topcoat: to be, at the very least, good.  "Male pattern boldness, pt. 3"Read more
Hemp the aged
26th November 2016
Some words about a new shirting — one which harks to a time before cotton; to when hemp was top of the crops.  "Hemp the aged"Read more
Male pattern boldness, pt. 2
29th October 2016
Who said the march of progress had to be a strident one? Here, the trench moves forward a small but significant step.  "Male pattern boldness, pt. 2"Read more
Male pattern boldness, pt. 1
2nd October 2016
About a peacoat which is happy to talk of the past, but respectfully, politely, tries to move the conversation along a bit.  "Male pattern boldness, pt. 1"Read more
A short fluffy tale
5th June 2016
A story in which all is not what it seems in the world of rabbit-derived super-soft south-west Wales-woven woollens.  "A short fluffy tale"Read more
Straw hat argument
19th April 2016
Hand-woven toquilla palm leaf, multiplied by blocking and finishing in south-east England, equals new panama hat.  "Straw hat argument"Read more
Of middling quality
2nd March 2016
Two new mid-layers, here, made with a linen-cotton hopsack from the easternmost reaches of Lancashire.  "Of middling quality"Read more
Caan-do
5th January 2016
A colloquial term from the Highlands, the balmacaan is a woollen walking coat which is anything but pedestrian.  "Caan-do"Read more
SEHK-SH-01 revisited
27th December 2015
Change comes to us all — including, five years on from its debut, that most unsung of workshop stalwarts, the shirt.  "SEHK-SH-01 revisited"Read more
Fur heads
24th December 2015
Introducing the every hat: made by a factory which has felted and blocked the finest fur since Wellington was wee.  "Fur heads"Read more
Relapelling
14th November 2015
So long as there's a front, and a back, and two sleeves, it is through its lapel that a jacket makes its first impressions.  "Relapelling"Read more
Some Ventiles, pt. 4
24th September 2015
The immovable object that is 15oz duck canvas meets the unstoppable force of Lancashire's water-hating cotton.  "Some Ventiles, pt. 4"Read more
A spectacle frame, pt. 2
15th May 2015
It transpires, then, that to get a brand new spectacle frame spot-on, on most faces, takes longer than you might think.  "A spectacle frame, pt. 2"Read more
Eilean hopping, pt. 3
8th May 2015
From an island off the north coast of Scotland to a jacket factory off the North Circular: a new linen has landed.  "Eilean hopping, pt. 3"Read more
Some Ventiles, pt. 3
4th May 2015
Introducing a world-first with everyone's favourite north-western water-proof wünder-cloth: L24 Ventile Ripstop.  "Some Ventiles, pt. 3"Read more
The shirt line
27th March 2015
The simple things made very well — this time around, in linen, and cotton, and in a very heavy combination of the two.  "The shirt line"Read more
Eilean hopping, pt. 2
6th February 2015
Separating flax from fiction with a weaver in the Outer Hebrides who weaves linen while all around her weave tweed.  "Eilean hopping, pt. 2"Read more
An unassuming wardrobe
28th October 2014
The workshop — all its paraphernalia and people — has upped sticks, just for one week, to Vitsœ in central London.  "An unassuming wardrobe"Read more
Eilean hopping, pt. 1
17th September 2014
There is one issue for which any referendum is redundant: some people in Scotland are good at making cloth.  "Eilean hopping, pt. 1"Read more
Reversible overshirt
5th September 2014
The reversible overshirt: built like an overcoat — as opposed to a shirt — and made from cotton and wool cord.  "Reversible overshirt"Read more
Some Ventiles, pt. 2
8th August 2014
There is a new type of Ventile, whose name — weft-dyed Ventile — is also the easiest way to describe what it is.  "Some Ventiles, pt. 2"Read more
A spectacle frame, pt. 1
8th June 2014
Frames for spectacles — or, if you prefer, sunglasses — being made with gold and acetate, now, by hand, in London.  "A spectacle frame, pt. 1"Read more
Some Ventiles, pt. 1
21st May 2014
If it can keep people at the end of the earth warm and dry, heavyweight Ventile is a safe bet for the new navy car coat.  "Some Ventiles, pt. 1"Read more
On crotch-pieces
19th April 2014
The crotch-piece can’t help sounding like a joke, but the approach to trouser-making it represents is very serious indeed.  "On crotch-pieces"Read more
Iteration, iteration, iteration
3rd April 2014
"If it ain’t broke,” it is easy to say, "don’t fix it." What an unambitious way of thinking. Just ask the tour jacket.  "Iteration, iteration, iteration"Read more
Two new cottons, pt. 2
5th March 2014
Exciting name for a cloth, airweave — and, with its breathable holey structure, the excitement doesn't end there.  "Two new cottons, pt. 2"Read more
Two new cottons, pt. 1
27th February 2014
New shirting from Lancashire has the easy-going wrinkled charm of linen and the crisp uniformity of good cotton.  "Two new cottons, pt. 1"Read more
Hand-woven herringbone indigo
2nd February 2014
The blue-stained trail of farce and fiasco begins anew, with a hand-woven 3-1 twill of the very finest rope-dyed indigo.  "Hand-woven herringbone indigo"Read more
The Dobcoat
13th December 2013
Right now at the one-man-mill: the first cloth woven on the first power loom in the capital since the Great Exhibition.  "The Dobcoat"Read more
Out of the rubble, pt. 2
6th December 2013
The chorus of button-making contraptions suggests things are going in the right direction in the Midlands.  "Out of the rubble, pt. 2"Read more
Out of the rubble, pt. 1
27th November 2013
Somewhere in the Midlands is a start-up — not a new-fangled start-up, though, but one that makes old-fangled buttons.  "Out of the rubble, pt. 1"Read more
Heavy metal riff, pt. 2
21st November 2013
Brow-mopping moments at the brass-buckle maker in the West Midlands — all in the name of quality hardware.  "Heavy metal riff, pt. 2"Read more
You and your scarf
10th November 2013
Few things will insulate a throat better than a six-foot length of plain-tuck-plain-tuck-plain-tuck-stitch lambswool.  "You and your scarf"Read more
The outer-knit
6th November 2013
The ongoing drop in temperature rendered all but irrelevant thanks to the return of the tuck-stitch jumper.  "The outer-knit"Read more
The return of Tetris tweed
31st October 2013
Curious cloth, Tetris tweed, with old-as-it-gets provenance, and modern, surprisingly geometric make-up.  "The return of Tetris tweed"Read more
On the road in Donegal
25th October 2013
Over to a remote corner of north-west Ireland and the weavers, spinners, and knitters tucked away within it.  "On the road in Donegal"Read more
Digging trenches
13th October 2013
The challenges of doing something not wholly classic with that most classic of classics, the cotton-twill trench coat.  "Digging trenches"Read more
Peacoats of Donegal County
2nd October 2013
All-new peacoats made from ludicrously dense, multifariously coloured, and stupendously textured wool-tweed.   "Peacoats of Donegal County"Read more
Laying on the lambswool
29th September 2013
When autumn gets going, you'll know about it, unless you take to layering with the likes of the new marl cardigan.  "Laying on the lambswool"Read more
Peacoat comeback
10th September 2013
The peacoat is coming back — fatly collared and five-button as before, but in new cloth from County Donegal.  "Peacoat comeback"Read more
Heavy metal riff, pt. 1
24th July 2013
On the trail of the last brass foundry in the Midlands: an area of pioneering metal-work since before Ozzy was a boy.  "Heavy metal riff, pt. 1"Read more
Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 4
27th June 2013
The first, and perhaps the last, rope-dyed indigo-cotton blazer hand-woven and hand-made in London, is finished.  "Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 4"Read more
Anti-craft movement
27th May 2013
"Weaving is an industry. It is not a craft," says the one-man-mill, flanked by his clanking chain-powered colleagues.  "Anti-craft movement"Read more
Down with collars
20th May 2013
The no-collar condition of the new collarless jacket isn't so much a deficiency as a multi-use, all-season blessing.  "Down with collars"Read more
Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 3
13th May 2013
Pattern-developments begins on a garment that may or may not be considered a type of workwear.  "Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 3"Read more
Joined-up making
9th May 2013
The onion-stitch blazer: the result of north-west mill and north-west quilting maestro working hand in glove.  "Joined-up making"Read more
Consider the linen suit, pt. 2
1st May 2013
The linen suit: a niche pursuit. But, cut precisely, with good cloth, and worn at ease, it has something for everyone.  "Consider the linen suit, pt. 2"Read more
Mac with detachable liner
27th March 2013
The seasons have fallen out of season but, to the new Ventile mac and its button-out detachable liner, it matters not a jot.  "Mac with detachable liner"Read more
100% cotton
22nd March 2013
Hand-loomed by the best in the Isles, there's only one problem with the cotton cardigan: no one believes it's cotton.  "100% cotton"Read more
Technical issues
6th March 2013
Made from clever old Ventile cotton, the detachable hood jacket performs commendably come rain or shine.  "Technical issues"Read more
Youth and wisdom
3rd March 2013
The new three-button blazer is made using tweed hand-woven by a father-son mill in Ireland's County Donegal.  "Youth and wisdom"Read more
Open and shut case
20th February 2013
Makers come and makers go, but the jersey and hosiery maker in Leicestershire, recently, did both.  "Open and shut case"Read more
Spinning plates
22nd January 2013
About developing garments, making garments, and selling garments — and doing all three at the same time.  "Spinning plates"Read more
Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 2
5th January 2013
The start of the year finds the one-man-mill picking up where he left off: indigo newly wound, ready for weaving.  "Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 2"Read more
Off the beaten track
28th December 2012
Time and patience are what's needed when working within the bounds of one coastline. That and an inside man.  "Off the beaten track"Read more
Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 1
17th December 2012
Work begins afresh at the one-man-mill. Rope-dyed indigo this time; two colours warp and one weft ready to wind.  "Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 1"Read more
London weaving, pt. 4
7th December 2012
Wool-tweed woven, peacoats made, and now, as work with the one-man-mill draws to a close, papers printed.  "London weaving, pt. 4"Read more
High-ply and hand-loomed
4th December 2012
Heavyweight hand-made knitwear: needs museum-grade contraptions and a century of so's expertise to do well.  "High-ply and hand-loomed"Read more
Herringbone plus barleycorn
14th November 2012
The seam jacket balances busy wool-cashmere cloth with design that on the face of it appears to do very little.  "Herringbone plus barleycorn"Read more
London weaving, pt. 3
11th November 2012
And so to the looms for the third, final, and easily most painstaking part of the making-tweed-in-London project.  "London weaving, pt. 3"Read more
London weaving, pt. 2
24th October 2012
Making bespoke wool-tweed from yarn of British sheep enters stage two: winding of tens of thousands of metres of warp.  "London weaving, pt. 2"Read more
Two for one
12th October 2012
Don't be fooled — the wool reversible jacket is in fact two four-button jackets in the same space-time dimensions.  "Two for one"Read more
Tuck-stitch knitwear
3rd October 2012
The jumpers have landed; ten-ply tuck-stitch jumpers that are at once both absurdly thick and incredibly soft.  "Tuck-stitch knitwear"Read more
When wales run widthways
24th September 2012
With its wales running from left to right not top to bottom, the horizontal cord blazer calls for lateral thinking.  "When wales run widthways"Read more
The imperfect shirt
10th September 2012
The semi-cutaway-collared shirt is back once again in brushed Cumbrian wool-cotton — a notch better than before.  "The imperfect shirt"Read more
Cord, raglan; raglan, cord
30th August 2012
Grade-A Lancastrian cord and the raglan shirt: for so long in opposite corners of the factory, but today together at last.  "Cord, raglan; raglan, cord"Read more
Wind and rainproof Ventile mac
23rd August 2012
The most tightly woven cotton going, Ventile is by right the go-to for action-heroes and top-level twitchers.  "Wind and rainproof Ventile mac"Read more
London weaving, pt. 1
21st August 2012
The prospect of weaving cloth in London using yarn of rare breeds of British sheep: not one that comes along every day.  "London weaving, pt. 1"Read more
Quietly does it
11th August 2012
Not so much as a whisper in the past few months — but, behind the scenes, at the makers, it's been full steam ahead.  "Quietly does it"Read more
Spotting the difference
25th July 2012
Similar inputs, similar outputs, similar contraptions in the middle — no wonder factories often look much the same.  "Spotting the difference"Read more
Beyond the bell marked 1
2nd July 2012
It's still a workshop-in-progress, but the cloth is in, the patterns are in, and, importantly, so are the garments.  "Beyond the bell marked 1"Read more
Two-button neat jacket
2nd June 2012
The neat jacket lets its three components — wool-cashmere, crisp cotton, natural corozo — speak for themselves.  "Two-button neat jacket"Read more
Cuffs, collars, sleeves, and yokes
30th May 2012
Over three floors in a narrow Victorian workhouse, shirts of unimpeachable quality are cut, sewn, and finished.  "Cuffs, collars, sleeves, and yokes"Read more
Lightweight but not lightweight
28th May 2012
Like the Irish linen from which it is made, the summer-time mac is exact in many respects, and in others easy-going.  "Lightweight but not lightweight"Read more
Inward appearances
9th May 2012
The collarless overshirt — a union of Lancastrian cord and cotton-drill — has more going on inside than out.  "Inward appearances"Read more
Consider the linen suit, pt. 1
1st May 2012
Few get-ups get a rap so bad, but start with steadying Lancastrian linen, and a new school of linen-ism awaits.  "Consider the linen suit, pt. 1"Read more
Cleve Workshops: 83 days later
25th April 2012
Built in 1895, the workshop has seen better days, but after three months of rehabilitation is ready for visitors.  "Cleve Workshops: 83 days later"Read more
Soft cloth, stout make
23rd April 2012
Made by an outerwear-specialist factory in North London, the pinpoint raglan shirt is made with real sturdiness.  "Soft cloth, stout make"Read more
Cord-inated efforts
20th March 2012
To complement last week's corduroy tour jacket come two new bottom-half-bedecking instances of wale-wear.  "Cord-inated efforts"Read more
The tour jacket, mk. II
14th March 2012
The tour jacket can be slung, rucksack-like, onto the back. Good for touring — or, more likely, being out and about.  "The tour jacket, mk. II"Read more
Wax and wool-cashmere mac
18th February 2012
The dry-waxed mac marries the weather-proof properties of British Millerain with a bespoke-made wool-cashmere.  "Wax and wool-cashmere mac"Read more
Moving images from West Yorkshire
10th February 2012
The finest mohair mill in the country, doing what it does — on video.  "Moving images from West Yorkshire"Read more
Export strength
22nd January 2012
Fifteen "high summer" garments made and sent over to Japan in six short weeks over Christmas and New Year.  "Export strength"Read more
Four walls and a lid
19th January 2012
Coming soon: a workshop on Boundary St. in London. As its name implies, part of it is for work and part of it is shop.  "Four walls and a lid"Read more
Some meritable mohair making
13th December 2011
The newest makers write-up returns to West Yorkshire, and a place at the top table of domestic manufacturing.  "Some meritable mohair making"Read more
Bashed-about wool-cashmere blazer
27th November 2011
Had a hard but character-building upbringing, the birdseye wool-cashmere cloth of the three-button blazer.  "Bashed-about wool-cashmere blazer"Read more
The made-in-Donegal cardigan
10th November 2011
Offers little in terms of details, trims, or stitches, the Donegal minimal cardigan, but nor does it much need them.  "The made-in-Donegal cardigan"Read more
Revisiting the moss-stitch
1st November 2011
Makes for deceptively steadying knitwear, the moss stitch — the all-new button-up crewneck cardigan, for instance.  "Revisiting the moss-stitch"Read more
Overshirts in sideways chalk-stripe wool
17th October 2011
The chalk-stripe woollen seam overshirt: the first fruits of partnership with a mohair mill in West Yorkshire.  "Overshirts in sideways chalk-stripe wool"Read more
Hopsack tweed autumn jackets
13th October 2011
The neat jacket might be a simple-looking garment, but below its surface are one or two autumn-aiding peculiarities.  "Hopsack tweed autumn jackets"Read more
From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 2
5th October 2011
The second serving of a behind-scenes look at West Yorkshire’s — if not England’s — oldest and finest cashmere maker.  "From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 2"Read more
Wool-cashmere and cord vests
1st October 2011
Flecked wool-cashmere and ten-wale cord on the outside, warm wool-melton inside, and winter-proof quilting between.  "Wool-cashmere and cord vests"Read more
Lambswool stitched three ways
22nd September 2011
Some soft but steadying Yorkshire-spun lambswool and three fit-for-purpose stitches make up the Nottinghamshire-made three-stitch rollneck jumper.  "Lambswool stitched three ways"Read more
Making things better
12th September 2011
Production: back on track. The first bunch of autumn-ready garments are off the line at a new London factory.  "Making things better"Read more
Introducing the Kelly collar
16th August 2011
Take a penny collar, neaten it up, then add a tab to brings its points together — do that and you get a Kelly collar.  "Introducing the Kelly collar"Read more
From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 1
21st June 2011
First of a two-parter. Words and pictures from a world-beating mill in West Yorkshire in the north of England.  "From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 1"Read more
Panama stowaway overshirts
29th May 2011
Two sturdy cotton-panama overshirts, with large pocketing, at the light-jacket end of the overshirt continuum.  "Panama stowaway overshirts"Read more
Half-hidden placket raglan shirts
5th May 2011
Cumbria-made cotton pinpoint shirts: expertly woven, satisfyingly crisp, and disciplined with a good wash.  "Half-hidden placket raglan shirts"Read more
Cotton-drill tour jacket
19th April 2011
A four-button jacket, made from crisp, comfortable cotton-drill, and intended to be worn in two different ways.  "Cotton-drill tour jacket"Read more
Midlands-made horn buttons
1st April 2011
Horn buttons makers in the British Isles weren't always so tricky to come by, but now, for one well-trod reason or another, this is only one.  "Midlands-made horn buttons"Read more
Samples and small runs in North London
14th March 2011
Not the most prepossessing of places, the workroom, but a textbook example of the sort of place that the trade really would be lost without.  "Samples and small runs in North London"Read more
Spring-weight linen shirts
21st February 2011
Shirts made from an organic linen, sourced from a mill between the Pennines and the Calder in West Yorkshire.  "Spring-weight linen shirts"Read more
Corduroy blazer cut crossways
20th February 2011
Short, three-buttoned and step-collared, the blazer — and a welcome return to lightweight Lancastrian corduroy.  "Corduroy blazer cut crossways"Read more
Wool-cashmere charcoal shirt
6th January 2011
The pockets of mills in south-east Gloucestershire are a prolific source of good wools — not least the charcoal wool-cashmere used for shirting this winter.  "Wool-cashmere charcoal shirt"Read more
Moss-stitched in time for winter
22nd November 2010
Grey and navy moss-stitch crewnecks for Book No. 1, knitted by a family-run mill in Nottingham in numbers that are comfortably counted on one hand.  "Moss-stitched in time for winter"Read more
Overshirts and under jackets
1st November 2010
Occupying wardrobe middle-ground, the turned-down collar overshirt is available for Autumn and Winter 2010 in slate grey and mustard cotton-twill.  "Overshirts and under jackets"Read more
Cotton-twill winter work jacket
11th October 2010
The first work jacket of the season is nothing if not winter-proof, constructed as it is from the most stouthearted cotton-twill that north-west England has to offer.  "Cotton-twill winter work jacket"Read more
Brushed-cotton autumn shirts
27th September 2010
With summer steadily drawing to a close, and the crisp days of early autumn imminent, the first group of new season garments have arrived.  "Brushed-cotton autumn shirts"Read more
Some real horn buttons
1st August 2010
With five generations of experience, our supplier of horn buttons — one of the last few in England — knows a thing or two about making them.  "Some real horn buttons"Read more
Preface now in stock
14th May 2010
Preface is a small set of garments for summer 2010. It has been put together with mills and co-operatives from Lancashire to Cumbria, and from the Midlands to London.  "Preface now in stock"Read more
Open all hours
12th February 2010
It is no slight pleasure to announce that S.E.H Kelly is now up and running and online.  "Open all hours"Read more