S.E.H Kelly

Nothing if not enveloping, the parka major. It has a big old hood, a very high neck, and a double-layered front — all of which serves to encase its wearer within the confines of several pounds of thick, heavy, and not even slightly pliant weatherproof cotton. More

It's a donkey jacket — but not as we know it. Respectful of the age-old workwear classic rather than deferent, this is a winter jacket with a whole-cut upper body, more pockets than one might expect, and a complementary combination of cloths warm and rainproof. More

The trousers here, made with cotton-linen from Lancashire, are true to the ways of the old school, but are executed in the ways of the new. They're built in a very sturdy fashion, with ample room in the seat and thigh so they don't pull or drag when getting up or sitting down. How trousers used to behave, that is, before trouser education was non-compulsory. More

The field coat is technical, sure, and full of features, but it never tries to impose itself upon its wearer. Like a well-mannered butler, rather, it is ready and able to serve when called upon, but is most of the time quiet, modest, and expert at minding its own business. More

The peacoat and its preposterous collar are back once again, and once again in heavy woollen melton from the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire. A reproduction of old military cloth, this — so faithful it's the very same mill making it, 200-plus years on. More

A balmacaan, this, in tweed from Ireland. And by 'eck — they don't make 'em like this no more. Actually, though, they do: they make 'em just like this, only perhaps better, with the one this year in a more speckled and textured barleycorn version of the same cloth. More

The SB is a tailored jacket with a two-button front, a slightly nipped waist, and a just-barely peaked lapel of moderate size. There's no structure — it is light and casual, without any padding in the shoulders — but it has the shape and silhouette of a smart suit jacket. More

The shawl cardigan is, in knitwear speak, ten-ply. Preposterously thick is what this means. Moreover, the collar — that great pythonic collar there — is a double layer of said knit, which logically makes it twenty-ply, and so akin to wearing an absurdly thick scarf. More

The greatcoat lives up to its name — at least in the dimensional sense. It is a long double-breasted coat, true in all the most obvious ways to its military lineage. But yet it deviates from that lineage, here and there, in trying to be a more friendly, approachable affair. More

The duffle coat is made with tweed woven in a mill inside a boat-shed on the Morayshire coastline, with every step performed singlehandedly with weaving machinery of Victorian vintage, using the tough, undyed wool of Herdwick sheep from the Lake District. More

The cloth from which the balmacaan is made is, yes, okay, grey — but it's so much more than that. It's a barleycorn tweed from County Donegal, alive with numberless, numerous, and beyond number little plump nuggets of wool, from chalk to red to chestnut. More

Time to roll up those sleeves and no mistake. For one thing, a spring that's unseasonably warm finds the workshop yard also unseasonably warm. On top of that, though, it's the business end of the season at the factory, with linen shirts aplenty rolling off the line. More

Linen suiting is, almost by definition, and certainly without much strenuous deduction, linen for suits. But you can also use it for shirts. What you get is this sort of thing — a robust, elegant shirt, significantly less crease-prone than linen that's run of the mill. More

The DB is a double-breasted jacket of the lightly tailored variety, made in true and proper fashion but with an easy-going appearance. It has very little structure, see, so is soft and relaxed, and a world away from the traditional, barrel-chested DB jackets of yore. More

The v-neck is a knitwear lexicographer's wildest dream. It is fully-fashioned, hand-framed, and hand-linked with super-fine geelong lambswool selected for roundness of handle. To normal folks, though, it is a versatile sweater made to the very highest of standards. More

The boatneck has, of all things, a boatneck, which is like a crewneck, but higher at the front and wider at the sides. And that's not all. It has rolled edges here and there, a dropped shoulder, a heap of inverted seams, and an almighty full sleeve and body side gusset. More

It's a good 20 miles from the workshop to the sea, so while the gansey here can't proclaim to be rooted in nautical lore and legend, it does carry on a proud tradition here of hand-framed knits made with merino lambswool and expressly suited to landlubbin' livelihoods. More

The shirt here has a Kelly collar — the name given in these parts to a collar with curved points which together fasten with a button and loop — and is made with a worsted-spun wool material from Somerset of uniquely grooved texture and sturdy structure. More

Summer is all very well, but finding good texture is far trickier than at the other times of year. Joy, then, for fully-fashioned, hand-framed knitting, where highly caressable texture fit for summer is not only achievable, but achievable in tandem with a tailored fit. More

The smock is an all-purpose pullover, with one foot in salty wind-battered maritime tradition, and the other in landlubbin' everyday life. It has an easy, relaxed shape — happily worn by itself, or like a protective workwear overall, over your shirt or sweater, say. More

The watch cap this year is brought to you by the letters T, E, X, another T, U, R, and then another E. It is knitted in the south-west of the Isles with geelong lambswool, which is a particularly fine and fluffy breed of merino, as is likewise this here gansey pullover. More

There is too much talk given to what corduroy means — whether "cloth of the king" or something to do with "roi" or a reference to a man called Curdroy — and not nearly enough to what it means to wear, which is soft and hard-wearing at the very same time. More

The polo shirt is a knitwear lexicographer's wildest dream. It is fully-fashioned, hand-framed, hand-linked, and knitted with super-fine geelong selected for the roundness of its handle. To everyone else, it's a warm, comfortable, many-purpose-serving sweater. More

More predictive of winter than the Gregorian Calendar and twice as wearable — yes, the heavy crewneck is back again in all its fluffy tuck-stitched lambswool glory. It is, as ever, ten-ply: barely a fraction below thermonuclear on the knitwear warmth-o-meter. More

The cloth from which the balmacaan is made is, yes, okay, green — but it's so much more than that. It's a barleycorn tweed from County Donegal, alive with numberless, numerous, and beyond number little plump nuggets of wool, from chalk to red to chestnut. More

The cloth from which the balmacaan is made is, yes, okay, brown — but it's so much more than that. It's a barleycorn tweed from County Donegal, alive with numberless, numerous, and beyond number little plump nuggets of wool, from chalk to red to chestnut. More

2/36 Nm might not sound like a lot — and that's because it isn't. In cashmere terms at least, it is very, very small, and very, very fine, and as such the scarf seen here tied into a cow hitch can be supremely light and slinky yet also impressively soft and insulating. More

The trucker jacket has more of an American twang than most other things at the workshop because somehow road haulage and vehicular logistics personnel jacket didn't have the same ring to it. In any case, it is a short and casual jacket of quite stupendously heavy cord. More

The flight jacket has a collar — or does it? It does. But it is a collar that can be removed, and as such, the jacket can be worn with this large, proud collar on show, thus tending towards the smarter end of the smartness spectrum, or as a no-collar bomber jacket-ish affair. More

As overcoats go, the car coat is a short one, but true to the spirit of those great and dashing car coats of the mid-20th century, it is still plenty long enough to keep its wearer dry — along with their shirt and jacket — as they bound from car to office and back again. More

Greater than the sum of its parts, the duffle. Eight lengths of rope, four toggles — hand-turned horn ones, naturally — and about three metres of very heavy melton is all that goes into it. But that all-enveloping sense of wearing a blanket — can't measure that. More

This is the parka minor. Its name is relative to its all-enveloping older brother, but is somewhat misleading all the same — what with it being a coat of considerable proportions and packed to the gills with all sorts of old-school technical features and functions. More

Tremendously earthy, the linen from which this shirt is made — yet subtle in colour and smooth in finish, so staying on the right side of smart. Helps too that it is woven with long-staple, wet-spun yarn, making for linen that bags and billows more than it creases. More

Mid-layers — they don't come any more onomatopoeic than the popover. One second you're there, your top half a little exposed, and the next — a pop! an over! — you're ensconced within a meter and a half of the very best linen in all the Belfast Metropolitan Area. More

Go on — try to think of the last time you encountered a shirt made with linen heftier than what's known in these parts as linen pinpoint. Not easy. And its weight comes in useful — not only in being durable, but in clinging less and so letting air circulate all the more. More

The three-ply cotton tuck-stitch of the new polo shirt, here, is so slinky it can travel down a flight of steps end-over-end, as it stretches and re-forms itself with the aid of gravity and its own momentum. It is hand-framed in a bucolic south-west corner of the British Isles. More

There's no getting around the fact that the pyjama top isn't for bedtime at all, but rather a loose and louche wearable for when the sun comes out to play. No structure at all, see, and with an open collar and semi-raglan sleeve that couldn't be more relaxed if they tried. More

The most obvious thing about the engineer jacket is the one thing it doesn't have: a collar. Rather, it has an open, curved front, like what you might see on old engineer or railroad jackets, and a back-to-front construction like what you see on nothing, really, ever. More

The slim trousers are, as the name suggests, trousers whose width tends towards the more narrow end of the spectrum. They're not skinny, though, but smart — cut in classic manner up top, with sensible rise and room in the thigh, then taper gradually from the knee. More

There is far too much talk given to what corduroy means — whether "cloth of the king" or something to do with "roi" or a reference to a man named Curdroy — and not enough to what it means to wear, which is soft and warm and durable all at the very same time. More

A t-shirt, this, sure — if you want to get all technical about it. But it is a t-shirt from an alternative history of the t-shirt, where rather than becoming a bunkmate of socks and smalls, it was crowned a classic and enduring example of a type of British knitting. More

The field shirt here is made with linen burlap from Northern Ireland. It's cloth of can't-miss-it character, stuffed with slub and bobble. While heavy to a preposterous degree, it is also breathable, and held up to light an open airiness in its structure can be seen. More

The SB3 jacket is made with a particularly twisty high-twist worsted, whose open and coarse quality comes about in part to its provenance. Woven with the wool of sheep reared and sheared in Yorkshire, see, where you seldom get by by being meek and bashful. More

Never mind Cancer and Capricorn — the worsted cloth here is tropical by virtue of its springy high-twist yarn and breathable open weave. That, and the fact it is woven in Somerset, equidistant exactly between the Tropics of Cameley and Cannington. More

Despite specialising in a narrow palette of murky colours for the past decade, the workshop sometimes plays host to what in the trade is referred to as a pop of colour. The field shirt — celestially phosphorescent next to everything else in here — is a new case in point. More

The boatneck has, of all things, a boatneck — which is like a crewneck, but higher at the front and wider at the sides. Rolled edges here and there, too, plus a dropped shoulder, and a bunch of inverted seams. And it is cotton, so pretty good to wear all the year round. More

The funny thing about the weatherproof ripstop from which the trench is made is that, despite being twice as tough as old boots — being a twin-layer ripstop of the toughest fibres around — it is also light and airy and comfortable in even the most sticky climes. More

The peacoat has what's known as a split sleeve — combining the front part of a classic set-in sleeve and the back of a raglan sleeve. It's quite a trick, and means you get the structure and clean lines of the former, with the comfort and wide-ranging movement of the latter. More

Nothing heralds the height of summer in this part of east London quite like a knee-length raincoat. It's all very well being an optimist, but even better is an optimist with this: the light, breathable, but all the while nigh-bulletproof car coat in weatherproof ripstop. More