Duffle coat in heavy melton in camel

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£600.00 — ex VAT

Duffle coat, made in London, with heavy (27oz) woollen melton from a mill in West Yorkshire — an exact replica of cloth woven for the British Army stretching back to Victorian times. Hand-made horn toggles, too, also from the north-west.

Sizing

The duffle fits true to size, and thus the mannequin — a 40 chest since the day he was born — wears a size M. It falls to the knee on persons of average height, and is cut in a relaxed, spacious way, so that it may be worn over a shirt, jumper, and jacket in winter.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 21 22 23 24 25
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 19½
Back length 37 37¼ 37½ 37¾ 38
Sleeve from centre-back 34 34½ 35 35½ 36

The method of sleeve construction, with the sleeve cut as one continuous panel from neck to cuff, means the shoulders accommodate and drape smoothly over human contours of every shape and size — rendering a shoulder measurement both impossible and irrelevant.

What we have here is a duffle coat rooted in the traditions of the form — foremost in being a very substantial woollen coat, made with deep winter firmly in mind. But there is novelty and innovation here and there, too, to make it more useful and interesting to wear than perhaps a run-of-the-dull miffle.
The hood covers all parts of the head save the face — such as is the least requirement for a hood — and, with shapely three-panel construction, hugs the crown and curves cleanly around the forehead and temple. There is a small tab at the back of the hood to adjust its fit for the small of head / short of neck.
The toggles are horn, and are handmade individually by a maker with some two-centuries experience, in the north of England. They are large, heavy, and clunk in a satisfying sort of way when knocked together. Being as they are a natural product, the colour and markings of each one is unique.
The toggles are fixed to the coat with rope — a jute rope, braided in the traditional way with a loose-laid single yarn, in the south of England. It has a deep, rich colour, and while it has a fairly gnarly appearance, is soft and smooth in the hand, so that opening and closing the coat is fast and frictionless.
Two brass press-studs here, to open and close the neck of the coat. The cloth is so thick that the neck stands up anyway, so you can get a good amount of winter-protection even with the coat half-open.
The coat has two pockets at the front, which are each covered with a large flap. They are positioned at a height such that cold hands are instinctively compelled to make regular use of them.
Bar-tacks make frequent appearances on the duffle coat, such as at the entrance to the pockets. They serve to strengthen the coat at all points of stress. Long-term wear without the tear.
The coat has one further pocket: hidden in plain sight at the front of the coat, beneath the left-side of the yoke. It is a vertical opening between the first and second toggles. Just the right size, this pocket, for wallets, keys, mobiles, or cigarette packets.
The duffle coat has a somewhat innovative construction, in that, at the front, it has what looks to be a set-in sleeve. A standard type of sleeve, this — the norm for a duffle coat — where the seam follows the line of the wearer's shoulder. From the front, then, the coat has a structured, smart appearance.
At the back, however, is a raglan sleeve — the giveaway being the seam running diagonally into the neck. This sort of sleeve brings much more freedom to the upper body, and means that despite the bulk of the coat, the wearer can still move with ease — all the while enjoying the clean line at the front.
The coat has cuff tabs which fasten to one of two levels of tightness with the help of press-studs (of the same species as at the neck).
The coat is unlined. Duffle coats, traditionally, are — not always, but most often — and rely on the warmth and quality of the outer cloth to keep the wearer happy. The duffle coat here is no exception. With no lining to cover them, all internal seams are neatly finished with grey cotton binding.
The wool melton is a replica of cloth woven by the same mill, on the same premises, over half a century ago for the British Army. It is heavy, sure, but with tremendous drape and flow. The yarn from which it is woven — of British sheep — is worsted-spun, hence is more lustrous than usual.

As worn

This gentleman has a chest of almost exactly 38 and is wearing his duffle in his usual S.

Makers of

The coat is made in north-east London. It is a very specialised skill, assembling coats from heavy cloth, and every reasonable step — and the odd unreasonable step — is taken to ensure things are built to last, from the cutting of the pattern to the work on the machine, but without the results being stiff or bulky.
The wool cloth hails from a mill founded in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire in the 1800s. Carding, blending, spinning, and weaving — it all happens on the same premises. This unique arrangement means that the fleece’s change into top-grade cloth could not be more tightly tuned.
The toggles are made in the north-west of England by a small team of expert horn-handlers. The making of the toggles is based on the deceptively simple centuries-old practice of slowly heating cow horn over flame, bringing to just the right temperature, moulding it by hand, and then polishing it up to the nth degree.

So they say

I just received the duffle coat. Thank you for the impeccable coat and service. This is another beautiful garment, and is just the length I was looking for. This material is very comfortable, it looks solid and warm, but doesn’t irritate my skin even when I tried it on with only a t-shirt. Those horn buttons are lovely as well. The sizing of your coats is always perfect. Thank you so much for your time and kind service. I'll probably purchase a navy one next year ...

Happy words from a man in the States who picked up the duffle coat in heavy hopsack in September 2020.

Just wanted to drop a note and say that after putting a few weeks of wear into it, the duffle is absolutely perfect. I nipped the sleeve a half-inch, but otherwise the lengths are spot-on, and the shoulder and chest are just roomy enough to layer a heavy lambswool cardigan or tweed sportscoat. This is the best piece of outerwear in my closet — and I own a couple of old [one brand] jackets and a [another brand] jacket, and a repro peacoat by [another brand] from Japan. It has already garnered more compliments than all of those other jackets combined, as well as a few quizzical looks from the stodgier partners in my law firm (oh well). It's a simple coat, but the horn toggles and hopsack cloth make it truly unique and special in the world of duffle. I am especially taken with the cloth: warm enough for the New England winter but springy in body and with much better drape than the melton of my peacoat. I am positive that I will be back again for another coat in the coming years.

Generous words from a chap in New England, who in November 2019 purchased the duffle in heavy woollen hopsack.

I knew when I saw it that I needed it. It is probably the most complimented (by complete strangers) garment in my closet. I love the fabric, and the hidden pocket tucked behind the yoke on the left chest is a very useful detail.

Words from a man in the States, who bought the duffle coat in November 2016.

I received my duffle coat a couple of weeks ago. It fits perfectly, and the quality is wonderful. I thought I was crazy to buy such an expensive thing, but I know I will keep it for a long time, and it was a good investment. Congratulations for making such a beautiful coat!

So said a man who purchased the duffle in camel-colour melton in November of 2018.