Duster in cotton stay-wax in breen

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£450.00 — ex VAT

Long coat, made in London, with crisp "stay-wax" cotton from Scotland: a high-count, high-performance cotton that performs like a waxed cloth with none of the sticky consequences.


The duster fits true to size, and so the man of calico and wood here, who is as standard a 38 chest as ever the world saw, is wearing size S.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 21 22 23 24 25
Waist 22 23 24 25 26
Sweep 24½ 25 25½ 26 26½
Back length 43¼ 43½ 43¾ 44 44¼
Sleeve from centre-back 34½ 35 35½ 36 36½
A long and sweeping but lightweight coat, this, continuing in comparatively pared-back fashion a lineage of coats favoured by outdoors and horse-straddling types for a century or more. Most notable perhaps are the cape-like storm flaps which cover the shoulders and upper back, giving an extra layer against the rain.
The duster has a large collar, cut as one piece, which is just as happy worn down as up, and curving closely around the neck either way. When up, a tab on the left side of the collar may be whipped over to the right — secured with the click of a press-stud — to help hold the collar when the going gets gusty.
The duster has a one-piece raglan sleeve, with tremendous forwards movement, great comfort in sliding off and on — satin-lined as it is — and great potential for layering. It's a simple style of sleeve to cut — until you try doing so, wherein pitching it just right with a single length of cloth proves complicated indeed.
There's a cuff strap near the base of the sleeve, emanating from the seam, which fastens to up to three levels of wrist-gripping and storm-proofing tightness.
All is not quite as it seems with the pockets. The patch pockets — those most obvious at the front of the coat — are accessed from the sides only. They're your hand pockets, in other words. The flaps above, meanwhile, are coverage for larger jetted pockets: the ones typically used to hold personal effects.
One more pocket can be found on the duster, at the chest on the inside, left-side as worn, and is exactly where your hand will expect to find it when it goes looking for it.
The front panels of the duster are lined with more of the same outer cloth, which makes those areas — a good two-thirds of the body — prodigiously weatherproof indeed. The back, meanwhile, is half lined with the same cloth, albeit half lined with a sweeping, curved panel, bound neatly with cotton.
Behold cotton stay-wax, which is mid-weight cotton heat-treated with a blend of emulsified waxes. It behaves just like waxed cloth in wet weather, but is bone-dry to touch. Also like waxed cloth, it quickly acquires a parchment-like patina — "chalk marks", as some folks call them — from every fold and crease.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1", 11 stone, and slightly north of 38 in the chest. The duster he's comfortably wearing here, then, is a size S.

Makers of

The coat is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The coat is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The cotton comes from Scotland, from a mill on the coast, where the making of heavy, waxed, and otherwise element-proof materials emerged in hand, centuries ago, with local seafaring trades. Industry-strength cottons finished in industry-leading ways is very much the order of the day here.