Formidable cotton, this. It acts like waxed cloth in wet weather — and over time acquires the same parchment-like patina — but is completely dry to touch. It is seriously rigid when new, but like raw denim soon softens up, and, with its already soft, brushed handle, soon becomes a man's best friend.
The field coat is a coat of medium length, with a front of six (hidden when fastened) press-studs. It has a round, turn-down collar of middling size, which is cut such that it closely skims the neck, holds form and shape at all times, and is just as happy worn up as down, or anywhere in between.
The firmness of the canopy cotton helps the collar stand up without so much as a hint of droop. Keeps the wind off the neck and chin, and because of the brushed nature of the cloth, it is especially warm and comfortable on skin.
The coat has a shooting shoulder. What this is is a neat gusset, running halfway down the back from the shoulder, which benefits movement in the forward and upward directions. And, after being stretched, it snaps obediently back to shape, thanks to some concealed elasticity.
The pockets on the coat are of the bellows variety. Crisply folded concertina-like bags, these, which open up more and more, the more and more you put into them. The pockets are also "floating", in that ...
... they are connected to the body of the coat only at the top. And so, when you bend over — action and movement, remember, being very much the order of the day in a thing like a field coat — the pocket will obey gravity, rather than the angle of your body, and thus the contents of said pocket are far less likely to escape.
It helps, too, that the flaps on the pockets fasten with a press-stud at each corner, heightening security for outgoing objects and incoming elements both. And then there's the belt, which runs under the pocket — no belt-loops here — and fastens with a heavy, clunking, and sand-cast brass buckle.
There are two further brass components round at the back, which define the two-part nature of the belt. Much like the strap of a bag, this means the total length of the belt can be adjusted to the perfect length, depending on abdominal girth and personal preference.
But of course — if personal preference is that belts are bad, it can be removed. Again, since there are no belt-loops, and the belt runs under the pockets, nobody will be any the wiser. The wearer might even wish to keep the unused belt in a safe place — in a large inside pocket, say, on which more shortly.
There are two warmer pockets above the main pockets — ideal for resting or warming hands. These pockets are strengthened, top and bottom with bar-tacks (below-left). The cuffs of the coat have a gusset construction and, with the help of more studs, fasten to one of two tightnesses (as seen below-right).
Inside, there is a pocket which runs from seam to seam across the back lining of the coat. Some call such things poacher's pockets, on account of it being large enough but discreet enough for stashing gains ill-gotten in the field — e.g. a salmon or trout. The pocket is also useful for storing the belt when not in use.
The rest of the coat is fully lined with more canopy cotton (aside from the sleeves, which are lined with satin for the smooth entry and exit of arms). The double-layer of weatherproof cloth makes for a very sturdy and hard-wearing barrier from even the most intense downpours. It is a field coat, after all.
