Peacoat in Herdwick tweed in middling sheep

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£770.00 — ex VAT

Peacoat, made in London, with heavy (28oz) tweed woven in north-east Scotland — in a mill in an old boat-shed on the Morayshire coastline, no less, operated every step of the way singlehandedly with weaving contraptions of Victorian heritage — using the natural and undyed wool of Herdwick sheep from the Lake District, and horn buttons from the Cotswolds.

Sizing

The peacoat fits true to size for a peacoat — which is to say, it is closer in shape to a jacket than an overcoat. For a more relaxed look, with more potential for layering, go up one size.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Waist 20 21 22 23 24
Back length 31¼ 31½ 31¾ 32 32¼
Sleeve from centre-back 33¾ 34¼ 34¾ 35¼ 35¾

The method of sleeve construction, with the sleeve cut as one continuous panel from neck to cuff, means the shoulders accommodate and drape smoothly over human contours of every shape and size — rendering a shoulder measurement both impossible and irrelevant.

This is a traditional sort of peacoat on the face of it. Look here and there, though, and you'll find a few nods to modernity. But, first off, what we have here is a large, heavy, and immensely warm coat, made to serve its wearer all winter long. It has a large collar, and is just about long enough to cover a suit jacket.
The peacoat has what's known, at least in the garment trade of east and north-east London, as an Ulster collar. It is cut such that it is just as happy to stand upright, skimming the neck at the sides and back, as it is sitting down — but even then, it is proud, and is never concave or flat or in any way apologetic.
The peacoat has a front of six buttons, stationed in three pairs, plus a further pair of smaller buttons which are hidden under the collar. These latter buttons enable the coat to be fastened right across the neck, serving as a formidable guard against the very worst of Mother Nature.
The buttons on the peacoat are large, solid horn — dark in colour and matte in finish — and each is a little different from one to the next. They are in that regard as if alpha-keratin snowflakes — such is the beauty of being a product of a high-grade natural material, rather than, say, a plastic replica.
There are two pockets on each side of the peacoat, which work in tandem to make life as pleasing as possible for the wearer. Its patch pockets are the most obvious ones, since they're of elephantine proportions. They're strengthened on both sides with bar-tacks — as every stress-point on the peacoat.
Less obvious are the "warmer" pockets, built into the body seam. These are partly submerged within the aforementioned patch pockets. In this way, they occupy a lower position on the body, making the resting of tired hands or the stuffing of cold ones among the most satisfying physical actions imaginable.
The coat has half-cuffs at the end of its sleeves. A nod to tradition, these, which are more typically seen on uniform coats and more formal styles of outerwear. These are more conservative than the great half-cuffs of yore, and serve no purpose other than to introduce a little pinch of grandeur.
The peacoat has an innovative sleeve. It is a one-piece sleeve which is cut to combine the sharp, smart — not to mention traditional — look of an inset sleeve at the front, with the ease and comfort of a raglan at the back. It equals a very, very soft shoulder, draping naturally over the lines of the wearer.
Inside, the peacoat has a chest pocket on the left-side as worn. Handy. Perhaps more importantly, though, the inside of the coat is faced with an extra layer of outer cloth — meaning that, when fully done up, there are four layers of thick cloth between the chest of the wearer and the harsh winds of the world outside.
The peacoat is lined halfway down the back with a smooth and slinky satin, cut as a single panel. It helps with sliding the peacoat on and off, being as the outer cloth has the potential for friction. The sleeves, too, are lined with the same cloth.
Pray you never run into the Herdwick sheep on a dark night in the Lake District. They're a tough, rough breed, see, and the character which sees them endure the wind and rain of Cumbria at 3,000 feet finds its way into this cloth. It's a heavy, coarse, wiry tweed, very much at one with the great outdoors.

As worn

The gentleman here has a chest of 38, and is therefore wearing the peacoat in size S.
It's the same setup here, with a young man with 38 chest in a peacoat that is size S.
The peacoat here is a size S, worn over a thick sweater, and you can see it's just right.
More of the same here — a peacoat in size S.

Makers of

The coat is made in north-east London. It is a very specialised skill, assembling coats from heavy cloth, and every reasonable step — and the odd unreasonable step — is taken to ensure things are built to last, from the cutting of the pattern to the work on the machine, but without the results being stiff or bulky.
The tweed is woven with wool shorn from Herdwick sheep — a breed native for millennia to the Lake District: rumoured to have first found their way to the Britain when the Vikings were in town. It is gnarly and thick yarn, and requires great skill and willpower to get it to do even close to what you'd want.
It is woven on a foot-powered loom built when George V was still feeling his way into the job, in a boat-shed on the banks of the Moray Firth, and is operated by a weaver whose weaving prowess has taken her almost as far around the globe as the miles clocked up every year in pedalling that loom.
Every now and then along comes a cloth which reminds you why you do what you do; cloth special in and of itself, infused not only with a big hit of lanolin, but origin and provenance — and by extension an invisible-but-there presence and authority — worth blathering on about. This is one such cloth.
The horn buttons are cut, shaped, and polished by the last horn button-makers in Britain. Relocated from the Midlands to the Cotswolds, they continue a tradition going back to the 18th century. "It is no easy task," claimed William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

I received my peacoat. This must be the best purchase decision I've made on clothes. [...] First of all, the presentation is superb: the way the coat was packaged in paper as opposed to plastic; the personal letter it came with following up on the enquiry I had via email; the complementary tote bag that feels premium. The peacoat itself is nearly perfect. I love how unassuming the hand-warmer pockets are. The way they are aligned under the large open pockets at the bottom. The way the detailed lining meets up to the armpit. It's like this one smooth transition from chest to hip. It's such a pleasing look. I also love the cuffs. Functionally, I understand that they're unnecessary, but it makes it stand out from other peacoats I've seen on the market. And the best part, like many other features typical of S.E.H Kelly clothing, is that it's lowkey. You look at it and say, "Wow that peacoat is beautiful, but I can't exactly pinpoint what it is." Similarly, the raglan sleeves from the back profile are such a nice touch. Again, one of those features that can easily go unnoticed if you don't pay attention, but looks right. I also love how the collar can be buttoned to protect against the wind and rain, so I don't need to bring a scarf with me. The structure of the peacoat is perfect. A lot of peacoats look terrible unbuttoned, but the way your peacoat sits looks exactly like the way the model wears it. I can really see myself wearing the coat for a lifetime. This is such a beautiful product.

A happy customer in Canada, who kindly purchased up the peacoat in heavy melton in November 2022.

I'm very glad I waited to get a new peacoat — yours is perfect. I wore it this morning while drinking coffee, indoors, like a kid wearing his new Christmas pyjamas.

Warm feedback from a chap in Sante Fe, who picked up the peacoat in melton in October 2019.

I just wanted to let you know how pleased I am with the peacoat. I've been searching for one, for three winters now, that is neither too fashion-influenced nor too faithful a vintage military replica and, crucially, that fits. Very glad to have finally found one that ticks all the boxes. Fantastic design, particularly with the shoulders and the pockets.

Kind words from a gentleman in New York, who purchased a peacoat in uniform melton in October 2019.

The coat was delivered this week. It is a thing of beauty and fits me perfectly, so please keep using those measurements. I will probably break down and wear it much sooner than the weather will allow, which is the sign of a pretty great coat.

So spoke a man who purchased the peacoat in merino hopsack in September of 2018.

The peacoat turned up, and it is fantastic. Beautiful detailing, and the quality is exceptional. I love it. Thanks again for all your help and impeccable customer service.

So said a gentleman who bought the peacoat in a camel-coloured melton in January 2018.

What a wonderful coat. I've been on an obsessive hunt for the ultimate peacoat for I-can't-tell-you-how-long, and this is genuinely a thing of beauty. Thank you. Also, my wife thanks you for her not having to discuss collar-width, hand-warmers, or Three Days of the Condor any more.

Kindly said by a gent who purchased the peacoat in heavy worsted overcoating in November 2017.

I bought a peacoat from you last year, I believe: amazing quality and nothing but compliments from everyone.

This gent bought the peacoat in Donegal's finest in October 2014.

I picked up the peacoat today. Of course, it looks impeccable. The tweed is really something. Thank you.

Another pleased peacoat purchaser, from November of 2015.