Peacoat in merino hopsack in colliery grey

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Peacoat, made in London, with a heavy, dense hopsack of merino wool from West Yorkshire, and with dark horn buttons from the Midlands.


There are more of these in work right now. Maybe not exactly the same, but not far off, and a matter of weeks — days, perhaps, even — away. No space here to go into details, so please email for more information.


The peacoat fits true to size. The mannequin here, for instance, who is so standard a 38 he has it stamped on his chest — is wearing an S.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 19 20 21 22 23
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 19½
Sleeve from side-neck 30½ 31 31½ 32 32½
Back length 31½ 32 32½ 33 33½
This is a traditional sort of peacoat on the face of it, but look here and there and you'll find a few nods to modernity. First things first — what we have here is a heavy, dense, and warm coat, made for the coldest days of the year. It has a very large collar — on which more later — and is long enough to cover a suit jacket.
The collar has what's known as an Ulster shape. It is cut such that it is just as happy standing upright, skimming the neck at the sides and back, as it is sitting down — but even then, it is proud, and is never concave or flat or in any way apologetic.
The peacoat has a front of six buttons, and with a further two hidden under its collar. In this way, the coat may be buttoned all the way up to the neck, with the full might of its double-breastedness posing as something of an immoveable object against all which Mother Nature chooses to throw.
The buttons on the peacoat are large, and are horn — dark in colour and matte in finish — and each is a little different from one to the next. They are in that regard as if alpha-keratin snowflakes — such is the beauty of being a product of a high-grade natural material, rather than, say, a plastic replica.
There are two pockets on each side of the coat. One is the patch pocket, which is of such elephantine proportions that you really can't miss it. The other is the warmer pocket, entry to which is hidden in the side seam. It is pitched at the right height for the resting of tired hands or the stuffing of cold ones.
The coat has half-cuffs at the end of its sleeves. A nod to tradition, these, which are more typically seen on overcoats and more formal styles.
The coat has a quite innovative shoulder construction: a one-piece split sleeve, with the sleeve set in at the front (right) but raglan at the back (below). Raglan is byword for a sleeve that gives good range of movement, and smooth drape over the shoulder — but, with the split, still with a smart line at the front.
Inside, the peacoat has a chest pocket on the left-side as worn. Perhaps more importantly, inside, the peacoat has an extra layer of the outer cloth — meaning that, when fully done up, there are four layers of very thick cloth between the chest of the wearer and the harsh winds of the world outside.
The peacoat is half-lined with a wool melton — a hard-wearing material, full of character and gnarled grey yarn — from a mill in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire. It is a fine outer cloth in its own right, but here is happy to play a backup role to its even more hardy colleague.
Hefty cloth, this — reaching its weight with great density rather than great thickness — and with the pleasing bobbly texture of a hopsack weave. It is made with two-ply merino yarn. Very supple, but with top-grade technical performance — especially in tensile-strength and abrasion-resistance.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1", has a chest just north of 38", and is wearing a size M. This makes it slightly wider in the body, but provides room for the whopper of a lambswool crewneck that he's wearing underneath.

Makers of

The coat is made in north-east London. It is a very specialised skill, assembling coats from heavy cloth, and every reasonable step — and the odd unreasonable step — is to taken to endure things are built to last, from the cutting of the pattern to the work on the machine, but without the results being stiff or bulky.
The wool cloth hails from a mill founded in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire in the 1800s. Carding, blending, spinning, and weaving — it all happens on the same premises. This unique arrangement means that the fleece’s change into top-grade cloth could not be more tightly tuned.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

I'm very glad I waited to get a new peacoat — yours is perfect. I wore it this morning while drinking coffee, indoors, like a kid wearing his new Christmas pyjamas.

Warm feedback from a chap in Sante Fe, who picked up the peacoat in melton in October 2019.

I just wanted to let you know how pleased I am with the peacoat. I've been searching for one, for three winters now, that is neither too fashion-influenced nor too faithful a vintage military replica and, crucially, that fits. Very glad to have finally found one that ticks all the boxes. Fantastic design, particularly with the shoulders and the pockets.

Kind words from a gentleman in New York, who purchased a peacoat in uniform melton in October 2019.

The coat was delivered this week. It is a thing of beauty and fits me perfectly, so please keep using those measurements. I will probably break down and wear it much sooner than the weather will allow, which is the sign of a pretty great coat.

So spoke a man who purchased the peacoat in merino hopsack in September of 2018.

The peacoat turned up, and it is fantastic. Beautiful detailing, and the quality is exceptional. I love it. Thanks again for all your help and impeccable customer service.

So said a gentleman who bought the peacoat in a camel-coloured melton in January 2018.

What a wonderful coat. I've been on an obsessive hunt for the ultimate peacoat for I-can't-tell-you-how-long, and this is genuinely a thing of beauty. Thank you. Also, my wife thanks you for her not having to discuss collar-width, hand-warmers, or Three Days of the Condor any more.

Kindly said by a gent who purchased the peacoat in heavy worsted overcoating in November 2017.

I bought a peacoat from you last year, I believe: amazing quality and nothing but compliments from everyone.

This gent bought the peacoat in Donegal's finest in October 2014.

I picked up the peacoat today. Of course, it looks impeccable. The tweed is really something. Thank you.

Another pleased peacoat purchaser, from November of 2015.