Tielocken in birdseye tweed in admiral blue

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Garment

£620.00

Overcoat — known as the "tielocken" for its belted no-buttons fastening — which is made in London, with birdseye tweed from County Donegal, and brass buckles from the Midlands.

Sizing

The coat fits true to size, and the mannequin — the most standard 38 chest in all the world — wears a size S. For a tailored fit, go for your given size; for a more relaxed fit, or to wear the tielocken over thicker layers, go up one size.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 19½
Sleeve over shoulder 30½ 31 31½ 32 32½
Back length 39 39½ 40 40½ 41
The tielocken is a coat style from the glory days of outerwear past. "The smartness essential in a topcoat," as one old advert suggests, "allied to such dependable powers of protection as enable the wearer to face the worst weather without discomfort or risk to health — those are the characteristics which define the tielocken."
The tielocken, then, sits between formal overcoat and full-blown, double-breasted, protective outerwear. It sure has the collar and lapel of the former — with a smart narrow notch, with, though it can't be seen here, some careful hand-stitching that keeps the join of collar and lapel flush and tidy at all times.
What defines the tielocken is the absence of any buttons at the front. Instead, the wearer feeds a belt through a slider fixed on a tab, then another slider on the opposite side, and then pulls the belt as tight as desired. It is surprisingly intuitive, and as satisfying a way to fasten a coat as could be conceived.
The length of the belt may be adjusted with another slider at the back. There's a large inverted pleat at the back, too, to give legs more room to kick. The pleat fastens halfway down with a tab and button. One more button — the jigger — sits at the inside waist, keeping everything in check when all is done up.
The tielocken has four pockets at the front: below the large flap pockets can be found in-seam pockets, stationed at just the right lateral and longitudinal coordinates for the instinctive plunging-in of hands. One additional pocket — the obligatory in-breast pocket — is on the inside of the coat.
One of the most novel aspects of the coat is its construction. It is a hybrid of two types of sleeve: the smart lines of a traditional inset sleeve at the front, but, at the back, a raglan sleeve. This provides great freedom of movement in the upper body: much more than a coat of this ilk would ordinarily provide.
The sleeves of the tielocken are furnished with turn-back cuffs. A nod to tradition, these, being fairly typical for formal styles of coat from bygone days.
The back of the tielocken is half-lined with grey melton — a hard-wearing material, full of character and gnarled yarns — from a mill in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire. It is a excellent outer cloth in its own right, but is here happy to play backup to its rather more fancy colleague.
The cloth is a birdseye tweed of middling weight, woven with surprisingly soft lambswool in County Donegal. It has base tones of grey and dark navy, and being as it is tweed true to Donegal traditions, it is smattered with felted balls of yarn — neps and burrs — to add greater colour and character to the cloth.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1", weighs in at 12 stone, and has a chest above 38. He's wearing a size S here, and with plenty of room spare for additional layers.
Same coat, same size, but a different colour.

Makers of

The coat is made in north-east London. It is a very specialised skill, assembling coats from heavy cloth, and every reasonable step — and the odd unreasonable step — is to taken to endure things are built to last, from the cutting of the pattern to the work on the machine, but without the results being stiff or bulky.
The cloth is woven in Somerset by one of the most illustrious names in British textiles. It is a mill which has woven for the great and good for two centuries and, in particular, has long had a thumb in the pie of military cloth — putting in the largest order for textiles, no less, during the Second World War.
The brass buckles are made by a foundry in the West Midlands, which was founded in the 1800s. It is the last such foundry in an area once heaving with them. Its sand-casting method — which sees 940°c molten brass poured by hand from a crucible into sand-made moulds — is ancient and infallible.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

The coat has landed. It is magnificent. This has to be the coolest coat I have ever seen, let alone owned. The fit is perfect, the belt is easily adjusted, per your instructions. The weight is perfect, and the fabric so soft with a very neat drape that it wears with a regal insouciance. Thank you for your creative artistry and your manufacturing perfection.

Generous words from a gent in the States who bought the tielocken in tweed in October 2018.

I just received the tielocken — and I love it! It is unexpectedly light in the best way and drapes very nicely.

So spoke the very first person to purchase the coat, in September 2018.

The tielocken is everything I expected, and that's a
lot. I'm looking forward to the temperature dropping.

Kind words by a man in France, who bought the first iteration of the tielocken, in Donegal tweed, in October 2018.

Exquisite. And despite the fact that I come from a long line of blunderers, I find the belting system to be pretty intuitive.

Feedback from a gentleman in the States, who purchased the coat in October of 2018.