Balmacaan in canopy cotton in manila

Prices exclude VAT, shipping is free, and orders leave the workshop within three working days.


£380.00 — ex VAT

Coat, made in London, with rain-proof cotton from Scotland — somehow both soft and rigid — and with horn buttons from the West Midlands.


Almost if not entirely sold out, these, by the looks of it. Still, don't despair. You can get in touch via to not only find out if or when they'll come back into stock, but to be notified should such an occurrence transpire.


The coat fits true to size, and thus the mannequin — the most standard 38 in all the world — wears a size S. It finishes mid-knee on persons of average height, and is cut in a relaxed, spacious way, so that it may be worn over a shirt, jumper, and jacket in winter.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 19½
Sleeve length 25 25½ 26 26½ 27
Back length 35½ 35½ 36 36½ 36½
This canopy cotton is quite something. It is a fairly heavy cotton with a "dry wax" treatment — which is to say, all the benefits of wax, but none of the wet, sticky drawbacks. It is bone dry. It is tumbled, too, and brushed, so has a soft, peachy texture; but, on the other hand, a hard rigidity, especially when new.
A classic walking coat, this: long and single-breasted, and with a two-piece raglan sleeve that allows a great range of movement in the upper body. Very helpful when it comes to layering, too. "Balmacaan" is the traditional name for this style of coat — from the Balmacaan forest in Scotland.
The coat has a collar of significant size, which is cut to sit straight and cleanly when down, and to really hug the neck when up. Beneath the collar is a throat-strap. This buttons across, one side to the other, and — by bridging the gap between collar and front — guards the neck against wind.
The coat has a front of five horn buttons — dark in colour and matte in finish. Because each is a thing of nature, rather than an ersatz replica, they are all unique — differing in shade and markings and so on. Same goes for the little backing button on the reverse, which help anchor their big brothers somewhat.
The balmacaan has welt pockets at the front, which are set at just the right height for the plunging in of hands. They are of considerable depth, too, and are held down at the corners by brass press-studs.
The above-mentioned pockets have a secret: they have a channel through which hands can pass to reach the inside of the coat. History has it this originates in the army — for grabbing a concealed grenade at a moment's notice. Today, it is handy for grabbing objects inside the pockets of a jacket worn beneath.
At the back lurks a deep inverted pleat, extending almost halfway up the length of the coat. It is constructed in the old-fashioned and faintly over-complicated manner of mid-century British walking coats, and permits extended movement when sitting down or stretching forward.
One more pocket: this time on the inside, on the left-side as worn, and set a little lower than normal to make things easier on the elbows. It is a chest pocket of standard wallet- or mobile-size.
The coat has a half-lining of even more canopy cotton. In this way, when also taking into account the facing on the inside-front of the coat, you have a double-layer of cloth on the most weather-exposed parts of the exterior. Elsewhere, meanwhile, the seams are bound smartly with beige cotton.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1", 11 stone, and slightly north of 38 in the chest. The balmacaan he's happily wearing here, then, is a size S.

Makers of

The coat is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The coat is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The cotton comes from Scotland, from a mill on the coast, where the making of heavy, waxed, and otherwise element-proof materials emerged in hand, centuries ago, with local seafaring trades. Industry-strength cottons finished in industry-leading ways is very much the order of the day here.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

Thoroughly astounded to have received the balmacaan in less than a day! Size XL is perfect on me, I’m very glad about it. The garment is on a whole other level. Thick and rough as I like, yet light and fluid in motion. It is so beautifully made, from the cloth, an absolute marvel of no-fuss weaving, to the cut that melds classical timelessness with functional modernism to stunning effect. Undeniably the sturdy and stylish paragon of a balmacaan I was after.

So said a man in France about his balmacaan in tweed from Donegal over Christmas 2021.

Let me tell you — the balmacaan is a work of art. From the texture and colour to the drape of the whole piece, it is so thoughtfully put together that every wear is a pleasure!

A happy customer in Germany, who purchased the balmacaan in heavy barleycorn Donegal tweed in October 2020.

The coat is wonderful. I have in my time worn [list of established British coat-makers] and, in their prime, [another very notable British coat-maker] and none hold a candle to this. It is lightweight, has a great hand and texture, its fit is perfect for me, and so is its cut. Thank you very much. It also arrived beautifully boxed and intact.

So commented a gent in the States about the balmacaan in the Flyweight quality of Ventile in May 2017.

The balmacaan arrived yesterday, intact, beautifully wrapped and boxed. It is beautiful and fits perfectly. Over a suit with cell phone, stethoscope, and assorted EDC gear on board, it is comfortable and not baggy. And the fabric is amazing. A soft hand and drape but seems as if it will wear forever. Love the Donegal slubs, too. I often wear a popped collar — a throwback to my preppy days — and the collar here really pops. I couldn't be more pleased. Thank you again for you great service and superior craftsmanship.

The words of a man who purchased a tweed version of the balmacaan in September 2017.

I have gotten the urge to advance further into the world of well-dressed people, and I was one of the lucky people who got their hands on the sturdy balmacaan in Ventile Canvas.

This is what a gentleman who acquired the balmacaan in (sturdy indeed) Ventile Canvas had to say in February 2016.

The balmacaan has arrived. It is beautiful.

Succinct words from a man who bought the coat in January 2016.

I have received the tweed balmacaan and it is even more beautiful than I remembered. Thank you very much again.

This man had been waiting for a tweed balmacaan for nearly two years, and finally got his hands on one in September 2017.

I'm very pleased — it's beautifully made and detailed.

More succinct words, by a chap who bought the bal in March 2016.

I thought I'd let you know that I'm really pleased with my balmacaan. I've already given it a couple wears despite the weather being a bit chilly, and I love it. The fit and cut is wonderful — modern and classic at the same time, great silhouette and a perfect collar. And the fabric is great, looks and feels lovely, and the way it creases, especially up and down the arms, is amazing. I imagine it ageing very well. A proper rain coat. I'm eagerly anticipating a rainy spring.

Kind words by a man who purchased the balmacaan in canopy cotton in March 2018.