Balmacaan in heavy navy cotton-twill

Prices exclude VAT, shipping is free, and orders leave the workshop within three working days.


£320.00 — ex VAT

Walking coat — or "balmacaan", to use its colloquial name — made in London, with heavy cotton-twill and moleskin from Lancashire, a lining of wool-merino twill from Yorkshire, and dark horn buttons from the West Midlands.


Almost if not entirely sold out, these, by the looks of it. Still, don't despair. You can get in touch via to not only find out if or when they'll come back into stock, but to be notified should such an occurrence transpire.


The coat fits true to size, and thus the mannequin — the most standard 38 in all the world — wears a size S. It finishes just above the knee on persons of average height, and is cut in a relaxed, spacious way, so that it may be worn over a shirt, jumper, and jacket in winter. If you prefer a neater fit, best go a size down.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 19½
Sleeve length 25 25½ 26 26½ 27
Back length 35½ 35½ 36 36½ 36½
What we have here is a long, single-breasted coat. It has a one-piece raglan sleeve, which gives a great deal of room and movement in the upper body, and lends it well to layering in winter. "Balmacaan" is a traditional name for this style of coat — from the Balmacaan forest in Scotland.
The coat has a collar of significant size, which is cut to sit straight and cleanly when down, and to really hug the neck when up. Beneath the collar is a throat-strap. This buttons across, one side to the other, and — by bridging the gap between collar and front — guards the neck against wind.
The coat has a front of five buttons — all of them real horn, dark and matte and tortoiseshell in colour. Because each one is a natural product, rather than an ersatz replica of horn, they are all utterly unique — differing in shade and markings. The same goes for the buttons everywhere else on the garment.
There are welt pockets on either side at the front of the coat. Just the right height and depth, these pockets, for plunging one's hands inside.
The above-mentioned pockets have a secret: they have a channel through which hands can pass to reach the inside of the coat. History has it this originates in the army — for grabbing a concealed grenade at a moment's notice. Today, it is handy for grabbing objects inside the pockets of a jacket worn beneath.
One other pocket on the coat resides inside, on the left-side as worn. It is a chest pocket of standard wallet- or mobile-size.
The coat is half-lined with a merino-wool twill — a smooth, breathable, and comfortable material, flecked in appearance — from a mill in West Yorkshire. It is a fine outer cloth in its own right, but here is happy to play backup to the cotton outer.
The coat is made from cotton — a twill, with the trademark diagonal weave. It is heavy and thick, but has a wonderfully soft brushed quality. The collar and front facing of the coat is made with moleskin, meanwhile, which is an even softer, more brushed type of cotton, and is very good against the neck.

As worn

The gent here is 5'9" and is wearing size S. He has a chest size of 38", and there are reports — neither confirmed nor denied — that he weighs in just below 12 stone.
The gent here is 6'1" and is wearing a size S. His chest size is 38", and there are unconfirmed reports that he is 12 stone.

Makers of

The coat is made in north-east London. It is a very specialised skill, assembling coats from heavy cloth, and every reasonable step — and the odd unreasonable step — is taken to ensure things are built to last, from the cutting of the pattern to the work on the machine, but without the results being stiff or bulky.
The cloth is sourced from a mill in Lancashire, in north-west England. Cottons have rolled off its line for nearly a century and a half. Industry-leading methods of weaving, dyeing, and finishing — unimproved in decades — along with steadfast adherence to quality, result in some truly first-rate cloth.
The wool lining hails from a mill founded in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire in the 1800s. Carding, blending, spinning, and weaving — it all happens on the same premises. This unique arrangement means that the fleece’s change into top-grade cloth could not be more tightly tuned.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."