Trench coat in weatherproof ripstop in sand

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Garment

£580.00

Trench, made in London, with weatherproof ripstop — a light but outlandishly strong paradox of a cloth from Yorkshire — and horn buttons and brass buckles from the Midlands.

Sizing

The coat fits true to size, and thus the mannequin — the most standard 38 chest in all the world — wears a size S. It falls just below the knee on persons of average height, and is cut in a relaxed, spacious way, so that it may be worn over a shirt, jumper, and jacket in winter.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Sleeve over shoulder 30½ 31 31½ 32 32½
Back length 41½ 42 42½ 43 43½
Called "weatherproof" for a reason, this cloth. Rain, no matter how much, beads up and bounces off; wind shall not pass. But at the same time, it has superlative heat-transfer and ventilation properties. By trapping air and wicking moisture, it is a high-performance shell on cold days and hot, sticky ones alike.
"The trench provides, from throat to knees, a double safeguard of the greatest value when exposed to wet and cold," goes a century-old trench coat ad. The same seems true then as now: a full-length, double-breasted coat, this, which will cover everything you wear beneath and keep you smart, warm, and dry.
The trench, being a trench, is a thing of versatility. It may be worn open (as top) or buttoned right up to the top (right). The collar is large and the collar-stand is full — cut such that the collar is as happy standing up as it is sitting down; that it tidily rolls down at the front; that it cuddles the neck at the side.
There is also the matter of the throat-latch. It may be buttoned across the neck (as left) or back on itself, out of sight. Having it dangle out front, insouciantly, isn't out of the question, either.
The buttons on the trench are large, and are horn — dark in colour and matte in finish — and each is a little different from one to the next. They are in that regard as if alpha-keratin snowflakes — such is the beauty of being a product of a high-grade natural material, rather than, say, a plastic replica.
The belt runs through a channel, hidden beneath the flaps of the pockets, and fastens with a brass buckle at the front. There are two brass components at the back, too: like a bag-strap, the length of the belt can be adjusted to the perfect length, depending on abdominal girth and personal preference.
There are additional brass fixtures at the cuff, where a cuff strap resides, with a handful of eyelets ("grommets" in some parts of the world) to adjust to a preferred degree of tightness.
The yoke is low and deep — running fully over the upper back — and the storm-flap at the front is a little shorter, though still deep. Effectively, you have two layers of cloth protecting the back — plus the lining, on which more later — and, with the double breast at the front, you have a coat impenetrable to rain.
Large bellows pockets sit at the front of the coat. They may be accessed from the top or from nearly hidden entry at the sides (see right). In effect, then, you have four pockets at the front of the coat, for your hands and for your belongings.
With things so eventful on the outside of the coat, inside, things are clean and simple, with a chest pocket on the left-side as worn.
There is a lining running halfway down the back of the trench of more weatherproof ripstop. The lining panel keeps things neat and tidy — disguising some of the knottier workings-out of the construction — and serves as an additional layer of cloth for the keeping-out of the elements.
The front of the cloth is a ripstop weave of aramid fibres; the back is a raised ripstop of more aramid fibres. Weapon-grade strength. And yet the cloth is soft and tactile, doesn't much age, and is supremely hardy vis à vis abrasion. Great for travel, too: light and resistant to creasing.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1", weighs in at 12 stone, and has a chest above 38. He's wearing a size S here, and with plenty of room spare for additional layers.
Same coat, same size, but a different colour.

Makers of

The coat is made in north-east London. It is a very specialised skill, assembling coats from heavy cloth, and every reasonable step — and the odd unreasonable step — is to taken to endure things are built to last, from the cutting of the pattern to the work on the machine, but without the results being stiff or bulky.
The ripstop cloth comes from a mill in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire, founded in the 1800s. Things have, of course, moved very much with the times, and so the traditions of weaving are allied now to cutting-edge, industry-leading standards in weaving, dyeing, and testing.
The brass hardware is made by a foundry in the West Midlands, which was founded in the 1800s. It is the last such foundry in an area once heaving with them. Its sand-casting method — which sees 940°c molten brass poured by hand from a crucible into sand-made moulds — is ancient and infallible.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

Boy, am I glad I took your advice and did not do any alterations. The sleeve-length and overall length of the coat are just right, and most importantly, the build quality is superb. I've never been able to buy an off-the-rack coat that fits me this well. I'm glad I found your company, and got my hands on this beautiful trench coat. Hopefully, one day, I'll be able to visit your workshop. Until then, stay classy.

Enthusiastic feedback from Finland, regarding a trench coat in Bedford cord, bought in September of 2018.

I received the trench, and it is beautiful and quite subtle ...

Kind words from a man in the States who purchased the trench in Bedford cord in September 2018.

The trench coat has just arrived, and has already passed the She Who Must Be Obeyed test with flying colours.

The gentleman here bought a trench in Shetland woollen back in January 2016.