Trench coat in woollen Bedford cord in russet

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Trench coat, made in London, with a mid-weight woollen cloth — known as Bedford cord for its grooved structure — and horn buttons and brass buckles from the West Midlands.


The coat fits true to size, and thus the mannequin — the most standard 38 chest in all the world — wears a size S. It falls just below the knee on persons of average height, and is cut in a relaxed, spacious way, so that it may be worn over a shirt, jumper, and jacket in winter.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 21 22 23 24 25
Back length 42 42¼ 42½ 42¾ 43
Sleeve from   centre-back 34       34½       35       35½       36      
"The trench provides, from throat to knees, a double safeguard of the greatest value when exposed to wet and cold," goes a century-old trench coat ad. The same seems true then as now: a full-length, double-breasted coat, this, which will cover everything you wear beneath and keep you smart, warm, and dry.
The trench, being a trench, is a thing of versatility. It may be worn open (as top) or buttoned right up to the top (right). The collar is large and the collar-stand is full — cut such that the collar is as happy standing up as it is sitting down; that it tidily rolls down at the front; that it cuddles the neck at the side.
There is also the matter of the throat-latch, which can be buttoned across the neck (as left) or kept out of the way by being buttoned back on itself (as top).
The yoke is low and deep — running fully over the upper back — and the storm-flap at the front is a little shorter, though still deep. Effectively, you have two layers of cloth protecting the back — plus the lining, on which more later — and, with the double breast at the front, you have a coat impenetrable to rain.
The buttons on the trench are large, and are horn — dark in colour and matte in finish — and each is a little different from one to the next. They are in that regard as if alpha-keratin snowflakes — such is the beauty of being a product of a high-grade natural material, rather than, say, a plastic replica.
The trench fastens with a belt which runs through channels hidden beneath the front pocket-flaps, and it fastens with a heavy sand-cast brass buckle at the front.
Large bellows pockets sit at the front of the coat. They may be accessed from the top or from nearly hidden entry at the sides (see right). In effect, then, you have four pockets at the front of the coat, for your hands and for your belongings.
With things so eventful on the outside of the coat, inside, things are clean and simple, with a chest pocket on the left-side as worn.
The trench is half-lined with a wool melton — a hard-wearing material, full of character and gnarled grey yarn — from a mill in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire. It is a excellent outer cloth in its own right, but is here happy to play backup to its rather sleeker colleague.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1", weighs in at 12 stone, and has a chest above 38. He's wearing a size M here, and with plenty of room spare for additional layers.
Same coat, same size, but a different colour.

Makers of

The coat is made in north-east London. It is a very specialised skill, assembling coats from heavy cloth, and every reasonable step — and the odd unreasonable step — is to taken to endure things are built to last, from the cutting of the pattern to the work on the machine, but without the results being stiff or bulky.
The cloth is woven in Somerset by one of the most illustrious names in British textiles. It is a mill which has woven for the great and good for two centuries and, in particular, has long had a thumb in the pie of military cloth — putting in the largest order for textiles, no less, during the Second World War.
The brass hardware is made by a foundry in the West Midlands, which was founded in the 1800s. It is the last such foundry in an area once heaving with them. Its sand-casting method — which sees 940°c molten brass poured by hand from a crucible into sand-made moulds — is ancient and infallible.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

Boy, am I glad I took your advice and did not do any alterations. The sleeve-length and overall length of the coat are just right, and most importantly, the build quality is superb. I've never been able to buy an off-the-rack coat that fits me this well. I'm glad I found your company, and got my hands on this beautiful trench coat. Hopefully, one day, I'll be able to visit your workshop. Until then, stay classy.

Enthusiastic feedback from Finland, regarding a trench coat in Bedford cord, bought in September of 2018.

I received the trench, and it is beautiful and quite subtle ...

Kind words from a man in the States who purchased the trench in Bedford cord in September 2018.

The trench coat has just arrived, and has already passed the She Who Must Be Obeyed test with flying colours.

The gentleman here bought a trench in Shetland woollen back in January 2016.