Ulster in Donegal tweed in serenydd blue

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£730.00 — ex VAT

Long, double-breasted coat, made in London, with heavy merino lambswool tweed (28oz) from a mill in County Donegal — ostensibly a mix of dark navy and charcoal yarn, but so much more besides — and horn buttons from the Cotswolds.

Sizing

The Ulster fits true to size, so the wooden man — a perfect 40 chest — has on his usual size M.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Waist 19 20 21 22 23
Sweep 21 22 23 24 25
Back length 42 42¼ 42½ 42¾ 43
Sleeve from centre-back 34½ 35 35½ 36 36½

The method of sleeve construction, with the sleeve cut as one continuous panel from neck to cuff, means the shoulders accommodate and drape smoothly over human contours of every shape and size — rendering a shoulder measurement both impossible and irrelevant.

The Ulster is one of the certifiable big-hitters of traditional British outerwear — a long, double-breasted, large-collared slugger, hailing legend has it from the dockyards of Belfast circa 1850. This one follows and respects true Ulster orthodoxy, but has an updated moveset for everyday usefulness and userfriendliness.
The Ulster has what's known as, yes, an Ulster collar. It is sharply angled at the front, but with points slightly rounded, and is cut to be just as happy standing up, skimming the neck at the sides and back, as it is sitting down — but even then, it is proud, and is never concave or flat or in any way apologetic.
The lapel may be swept across the front and fastened to a small button partially obscured beneath the collar — an instant four layers of tweed gained between man and world. There is then the option to keep the collar up with the help of another tiny button, or to fold it down again over the front.
The buttons on the Ulster are large, and are horn — dark in colour and matte in finish — and each is a little different from one to the next. They are in that regard as if alpha-keratin snowflakes — such is the beauty of being a product of a high-grade natural material, rather than, say, a plastic replica.
The Ulster has four pockets at the front: below the large flap pockets can be found in-seam pockets, stationed at just the right lateral and longitudinal coordinates for the instinctive plunging-in of hands. Two additional pockets — jetted in-breast pockets — are on the inside of the coat.
An innovative sleeve, this, combining the sharp and smart and traditional look of a inset sleeve at the front — such as always on coats of this ilk — with the ease and comfort of a Dolman sleeve at the back. It equals a very soft shoulder, draping smoothly over the lines of the wearer, and great movement.
Round the rear lurks a deep vent which runs from the belt line to the hem. It is constructed in the old-fashioned and faintly over-complicated manner of mid-century British walking coats, and means there's more coat to the coat to expand when the wearer lurches forwards or sideways.
Also at the back is a fixed belt, running between the rear seams. It breaks up what is a fairly long body, and helps pull the situation together, both literally and figuratively, by introducing a sense of shape at the middle.
The coat has turn-back cuffs at the end of its sleeves. A nod to tradition, these, being more typically seen on uniform coats and formal styles of outerwear. The cuff starts at the outer sleeve seam, skims around the sleeve, and its circumnavigation is rewarded with a button in its slightly curved top corner.
The Ulster is lined halfway down the back with a smooth and slinky satin, cut as a single panel. It helps greatly with sliding the coat on and off, being as the outer cloth has the potential for friction. The sleeves, too, are lined with the same cloth.
The cloth is thick, heavy barleycorn tweed, Donegal writ through. The yarn — a warp of dark navy and a weft of charcoal — is alive with tufts of unexpected shades, from off-white to auburn. It is merino lambswool, softer than one might assume, and fairs mightily well in the wet and the windy.

As worn

Him, here, is as standard a 38 chest as ever there was. He is thus wearing a size S.

Makers of

The coat is made in north-east London. It is a very specialised skill, assembling coats from heavy cloth, and every reasonable step — and the odd unreasonable step — is taken to ensure things are built to last, from the cutting of the pattern to the work on the machine, but without the results being stiff or bulky.
The cloth is woven by a sixth-generation mill in County Donegal in Ireland. Every inch of the cloth, every step of the way — from the designing to the warping to the weaving — is overseen by two people: a father and son, who continue the flecked tweed traditions of this part of Ireland.
The horn buttons are cut, shaped, and polished by the last horn button-makers in Britain. Relocated from the Midlands to the Cotswolds, they continue a tradition going back to the 18th century. "It is no easy task," claimed William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

I received the package yesterday and just had a chance to try on the coat. My kids' favourite joke is to say they don’t like something, then when you ask "Why?" they reply "I didn’t like it, I loved it!" Well, I don’t like the Ulster: I absolutely love it! The navy (my favourite colour) fabric is amazing. The fit is spot-on. The slight cinching on the waist just makes it a touch smarter and more elegant, while still being versatile enough to wear with casual outfits. The collar is as fabulous as you describe. It's a monster of a beefy coat that somehow doesn’t feel heavy and beefy when it's on. For once, I can’t wait for the temperatures to drop around here so I can start wearing it. Let me just say it also feels great to support a company like S.E.H Kelly that truly cares about its craft, engages with their customers, and crafts such high-quality, unique pieces with, for lack of a better word, soul. You will probably hear from me again as I’m already browsing the lovely items in your shop again.

Happiness abounds from a man who bought the Ulster in dark navy in the States in November 2024.

I received my Ulster earlier this week and I must say that it is a piece to behold. This is a garment that unambiguously wears you, and might I add that has the potential to wear you down merely due to the force that gravity applies. Thus the rear pleat of this longform peacoat amplifies the volume below the belt, making the Ulster ideal for walking, and never feeling trapped by the warmth or the heft. Keep following your intuition and I will be a lifelong collector.

Kind words from a man in Canada — where they know a thing or two about warmth — in early November 2024.

Life has given me the chance to own several fine garments, but nothing compares to the quality, fit, and soul that your clothes possess. The Ulster is sensational! The weight of the cloth, the softness, the cut of the shoulder, the arrangement of the pockets, the practicality, and the very humble elegance that the whole piece exudes. I'm more than won over, and you have given me a great moment of joy in acquiring an object that will follow me for many years to come! With my heart wide open, I sincerely thank you for the excellence in which you invest yourself and I wish you all the best in the success of your business and your art.

So spoketh a French gent in November 2024.

I wanted to thank you for the exceptional care and attention you’ve put into crafting the Ulster. It's truly a beautiful piece, and I can already imagine handing it down to my son in a decade or so when he’s grown tall enough to wear it himself. Your craftsmanship shines through, and I'm delighted to have had the opportunity to support it.

Feedback from a London man in November 2024.

I've just received the Ulster, and it's truly unlike anything else in my wardrobe. The lapels are quite expressive, with a smooth roll as if having canvas within them. A few years ago, I visited the north-west [of England] and touched some sheeps with rough grey-streaked coats and white heads. Touching this coat brings me back to that good time. That being said, it is quite heavy, so I intend to reserve it for occasional snowy days, making it even more special.

Heartwarming and Proustian reflections from a man in the States who acquired the Ulster in Herdwick tweed in early November 2023.

[The Ulster] has arrived and I’m blown away, as always!

So said a man in London who bought the Ulster in Herdwick tweed in October 2023.