DB jacket in corduroy in navy

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Buying

£370.00 — ex VAT

Double-breasted jacket, made in London, with mid-weight (10oz) corduroy from Lancashire, and dark horn buttons from the West Midlands.

Sizing

The DB jacket fits true to size. The wooden gentleman here, for instance, is as standard a 38 as ever there was, and so is wearing a size S.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 19 20 21 22 23
Shoulder 17 17½ 18 18½ 19
Back length 28½ 28¾ 29 29¼ 29½
Sleeve from centre-back 34 34½ 35 35½ 36
The name of this jacket is a dead giveaway: the DB is a double-breasted jacket of the tailored variety, made in true and proper fashion but with a very easy-going appearance. It has very little structure, you see, so is soft and relaxed.
While the collar and lapel are of fairly standard size, the notch is minuscule indeed, and is to all intents and purposes closed, since the adjacent edges run flush to each other and are held together with criss-cross stitching. So fond of each other are they that they end at the same point as well.
The jacket has a front of four buttons, all of them horn, of which two are functional, to fasten the jacket, and two vestigial of times past, when jacket symmetry was not only preferable but a legal obligation. There's a jigger button on the inside, too, to hold the underside of the jacket in check when it is fastened.
The pockets on the front of the jacket are nothing if not large. They have reinforced patches, too, redolent of certain outerwears from the world of workwear, and a reminder that this is a jacket for life, for which a prematurely worn-through pocket whether thanks to car keys or screwdrivers simply will not do.
There aren't many places on a DB jacket that need bar-tacks, but the corners of the aforementioned pockets have them at either side of the entrance. Little else lends peace of mind like a stubby, solid little tack, after all.
The cuffs are, suffice to say, working (as in "working cuffs") and fasten with two buttons. Visible also here is a vent, of which there are two — one on each side ("double vented", as the phrase goes). And then handiwork, visible below-right, in the form of a chain-stitch to support the stalk of a boutonnière.
There's just the one in-breast pocket on the DB jacket. It's on the left side as worn.
The upper third of the DB is lined with a slinky satin, which makes sliding the thing off and on an exercise in frictionless grace. The sleeves, likewise, are lined with the same material. No matter the coarseness of the shirt or sweater worn underneath, then: the DB will glide over it as rendered from Teflon.
This is a corduroy which is middle of weight and narrow of wale. It is a very soft cloth, particularly its interior, but — cord being a traditional working cloth — is exceptionally hard-wearing. And, despite being soft and warm on cooler days, it is eminently breathable, and so really rather good all year round.

As worn

Him, here, is 6'1", 11 stone, and has a chest of 38. Here he wears a size S and it is a good fit — albeit a little on the short side on account of his height.

Makers of

The jacket is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The jacket is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The cloth is made by a cotton mill in Lancashire, in north-west England. Cottons have rolled off its line for nearly a century and a half. Industry-leading methods of weaving, dyeing, and finishing — unimproved in decades — along with steadfast adherence to quality, result in some truly first-rate cloth.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."