Pyjama jacket in cotton-linen hopsack in umber

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Buying

£280.00 — ex VAT

Light and unstructured five-button jacket, made in London, with a robust (12oz) hopsack of cotton and linen from a mill in Lancashire, and with horn buttons from the West Midlands.

Sizing

The jacket fits entirely true to size. The mannequin here — the most standard 38 chest on this planet or any other — is wearing an S.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Back length 28¼ 28½ 28¾ 29 29¼
Sleeve from centre-back 34 34½ 35 35½ 36
The pyjama jacket isn't really for bedtime. Rather, it is a light, unstructured jacket, with some of the trappings of old-fashioned jim-jams. It has an open collar, which falls low, and is suited well to being worn in a louche and laid-back manner — over a t-shirt, say, or light shirt — ideally in spring and summer.
A curious type of collar, this — previously found only on uniform jackets in the middling second half of the last century. It is asymmetric, in that one side — the under-side when fastened — has a small notch where the curve of the collar begins, enabling things to sit nice and flush when fastened.
This is a half-raglan sleeve — halfway between a set-in sleeve and a full raglan — and is what gives the pyjama jacket its blend of soft shoulder, like a full raglan, but with less smart and sporty lines. The sleeves are lined with a slinky satin to allow arms to slide in and out without friction.
There is a split at the end of the sleeves, which facilitates the rolling up of sleeves. Again — the pyjama jacket is a resolutely relaxed affair, and outwardly encourages such gestures when the going gets warm.
A large patch pocket with turn-down detail is stationed at the chest of the jacket. It is deep, the pocket, and positioned quite low at the chest so the treasures stashed within may be very readily retrieved. The turn-down detail, meanwhile, rolls over on itself and is held down with bar-tacks.
The buttons on the jacket are large, solid horn — dark in colour and matte in finish — and each is a little different from one to the next. They are in that regard as if alpha-keratin snowflakes — such is the beauty of being a product of a high-grade natural material, rather than, say, a plastic replica.
The cloth is equal parts cotton and linen, and is a heavy hopsack, redolent of traditional workwear material. It is strong and hard-wearing, but because of the high linen content, is cool to touch and more breathable than you'd expect. The linen throws out a slub every now and then, too, adding character.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1", 38 in the chest, weighs about 11 stone, and is here wearing size S.
This jacket is also size S, but is made with cotton-linen hopsack rather than linen burlap, with more shape and structure.
Same man, same jacket, same size.

Makers of

The jacket is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The jacket is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The cloth is woven by a linen mill, a few miles south of Belfast in Northern Ireland. The mill was built at the end of the 1800s, back when Belfast was "Linenopolis". That it's one of the last mills still standing in the area is testament to its exemplary work in the weaving, dying, and finishing of luxury-grade linen.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

I just received the pyjama jacket today. I dunno what to say! It’s awesome. The fabric, the details, the fit ... You were right about the sizing, as the size S is just what I needed. I’m more than happy with this new kid in my wardrobe, and you can be sure that it won’t be the last from your brand.

Happy words from France, courtesy of a man who picked up the pyjama jacket in a blend of merino wool and cotton in August 2020.