SB jacket in motley tweed in north sea blue

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£440.00 — ex VAT

Unstructured tailored jacket, made in London, with a mid-weight (13oz) woollen cloth of fuzzy Shetland yarn from West Yorkshire — it's dark navy from afar but up close can be seen to comprise a variety of blues and blacks — and with dark horn buttons from the West Midlands.

Sizing

The SB jacket fits true to size, and thus the mannequin here — so perfect a 40 he has it branded on his chest — is wearing a size M.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 19 20 21 22 23
Shoulder 16 16½ 17 17½ 18
Back length 29 29¼ 29½ 29¾ 30
Sleeve from centre-back 33½ 34 34½ 35 35½
The SB is a single-breasted tailored jacket. It has a two-button front, a slightly nipped waist, and a just-barely peaked lapel of moderate size. There's no structure here — it is light and casual, without any padding in the shoulders — but it has the proportions and the silhouette of a smart suit jacket.
The buttons on the jacket are horn, and are dark matte tortoiseshell in colour. Being as they are an entirely natural thing, each looks different to the next, varying in tone and hue and striatic markings.
There are three buttons at the cuff, with the buttonholes cut open. It is a working cuff, in other words, though has no quarrel whatsoever with cuffs that cannot work or do not work.
At the front of the jacket are two large patch pockets, which are strengthened with bar-tacks at the top corners (below-left). Above one of these patches, on the right-side as worn, is a smaller glove pocket. There's a pocket of similar size at the lower chest, too, on the other side of the jacket (below-right).
Some hand-sewing here. The chain-stitch below the button-hole helps hold in place a boutonnière (a flower, for instance). The criss-cross ("duck") stitch, meanwhile, holds together the lapel and the collar so that, over time, one doesn't flap around independently of the other. Helpful little hidden handiwork.
The jacket has an in-breast pocket — an internal chest pocket, that is, of the jetted variety — on both the left and right sides.
The rest of the innards of the jacket are finished with cotton binding. The centre-back seam, for instance, which fans out and becomes the (single) back vent.
The jacket has a buggy lining, across the upper back, of smooth, slinky satin. Likewise the sleeves. The jacket thus slides on and off with ease. The lower regions are unlined. This is an unstructured and travel-friendly jacket, after all. The seams are finished cleanly and carefully with grey cotton binding.
The cloth here is, depending on how you look at it, either a fairly thick flannel woven with coarse Shetland wool, or a fairly light tweed of same. It's a matter of perspective. And, either way, it is a durable cloth, with good natural bounce, and is breathable such that it won't bake you worn inside in winter.

As worn

Him, here, is as standard a 38 as ever there was. He is thus wearing a size S.

Makers of

The jacket is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The jacket is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The wool cloth hails from a mill founded in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire in the 1800s. Carding, blending, spinning, and weaving — it all happens on the same premises. This unique arrangement means that the fleece’s change into top-grade cloth could not be more tightly tuned.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

I received the SB package in perfect order, and can't say how much I love the jacket. It fits perfectly. I like the cut and drape a lot. And it is gladly and surprisingly short. But, because of the the full cut, it can be worn with a bulky sweater underneath, which is just what I had hoped for.

So confided a gentleman about the Donegal tweed SB in May 2016.

Just wanted to let you know the SB in twill has arrived, and it is absolutely dashing — in an understated way.

Another acquire of an SB in Donegal tweed — defying seasonal norms in November of 2015.

I received my SB yesterday, and it by far exceeds my expectations. It's truly a fantastic piece of clothing.

Kind words from a gentleman who bought a cotton-drill version of the SB back in 2014.

I am very happy with the SB jacket. A somewhat "obscure object of desire" for me, perhaps, but I just had to have it. This desire now satisfied, I may not need to buy any new threads for a while, but when I do I'll look to you folks first.

His "object of desire" was the SB in a blue herringbone linen, acquired in May 2015.

Very pleased with my SB and thinking of buying another.

Encouraging words from a chap who bought a woollen SB in February of 2017.