SB1 in linen pinpoint in slate blue

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One-button jacket, made in London, with linen of middling weight (10oz) from Northern Ireland, and horn buttons from the Midlands.


The SB1 fits true to size, and so the mannequin — the most standard 38 in the world — wears S. The body is short — finishing mid-wrist on most people — and straight, with the waist pulled in only slightly. The shoulder is soft and unstructured; the sleeves are an average width.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 19½
Back length 27½ 27¾ 28 28¼ 28½
Sleeve from   centre-back 33       33½       34       34½       35      
The SB1 is a one-button jacket — that's SB as in single-breasted, and 1 as in one. It is a casual jacket — as close to an everyday jacket as to a thing of tailoring — and is made with a very good, soft, mid-weight linen from the linen stronghold outside Belfast in Northern Ireland.
The buttons on the jacket are made from horn, and are matte in finish and dark in colour. Each button a little different in colour and markings from one to the next — indeed, from every other button ever made. Such is the beauty of being a product of natural materials, rather than, say, a plastic replica.
Horn buttons at the cuffs, too — one each side, positioned a little higher than normal.
The jacket has deep patch pockets at the front, both of them covered with large flaps. At the chest, meanwhile, there is a smaller patch pocket.
Some hand-sewing here. The chain-stitch below the button-hole helps hold in place a boutonnière (a flower, for instance). The criss-cross ("duck") stitch, meanwhile, holds together the lapel and the collar so that, over time, one doesn't flap around independently of the other. Helpful little hidden handiwork.
There is a single jet pocket on the inside of the jacket, on the left-hand side as worn. Best not to over-complicate things.
The cloth is a very fine linen, but one of middling heft, from Northern Ireland. It has a washed finish, and a soft handle, and drapes in a smart and clean manner — no crumple-prone linen, this. It is a pinpoint weave, of two different, marle linens, which offers up a very pleasing texture for the eye.
The jacket has a half lining across the upper back. The cloth here is the same as the outer cloth. Fewer materials, less clutter. The edge of this lining, and all the other seams on the inside of the jacket, are neatly bound with navy blue cotton.

As worn

The gent here is 5'9" and is wearing size S. He has a chest size of 38", and there are reports — neither confirmed nor denied — that he weighs in just below 12 stone.

Makers of

The jacket is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The jacket is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The cloth is woven by a linen mill, a few miles south of Belfast in Northern Ireland. The mill was built at the end of the 1800s, back when Belfast was "Linenopolis". That it's one of the last mills still standing in the area is testament to its exemplary work in the weaving, dying, and finishing of luxury-grade linen.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

The SB1 has arrived. I am more than happy with it. The material is hefty and just as I expected it to be. The length is perfectly fine for me — as I prefer mid-to-high waisted trousers — with enough room for a substantial jumper.

The SB1 in moleskin is what this gent bought back in February 2017.

I received the SB1 today, and the only thing I can tell you is that I'm fully satisfied with the product. It's really exceed my expectation. The fabric looks much better than in the photo, and it has a really nice touch. It is a bit roomier around the chest than I expected, but with it I can easily wear a sweater underneath which is comfy during this season. I just wish that I could have the trousers as well.

This chap acquired the SB1 jacket in airweave cotton in November 2016.

I am very pleased with the SB1. Exactly as imagined — well made, a very good fit, warm, and with a customised feel.

So said by a man about the SB1 in black moleskin in November 2015.