SB1 jacket in drab high-count cotton

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One-button jacket, made in London, using a crisp and tightly woven cotton from Lancashire and pale horn buttons from the West Midlands.


The SB1 fits true to size, and so the mannequin — the most standard 38 in the world — wears S. The body, in terms of length, is short, and its shape is fairly straight, with the waist pulled in very slightly. The shoulders are soft and unstructured; the sleeves are an average width.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 19½
Back length 27½ 27¾ 28 28¼ 28½
Sleeve from   centre-back 33       33½       34       34½       35      


This is cotton, yes — but with elements which are not, such as the sleeve-lining and the buttons. It is therefore best washed by hand in lukewarm water, or with the help of a dry cleaner. If a machine must be used, a cold wash and zero tumble-drying is the only way to go.

The SB1 is a one-button jacket — that's SB as in single-breasted, and 1 as in one. It is a casual, everyday jacket, made with a crisp, mid-weight cotton — densely woven, hence "high-count". It is the sort of cloth that looks clean and crisp when new, but when worn and "broken in" takes on a lot of character.
The jacket has a soft, casual collar, with a DB-style peaked lapel — only very slightly: the lapel is a quarter-inch longer than the collar — and a notch which is horizontal.
The buttons — at the front, and on each cuff (below-right) are made from horn, and are light in colour and matte in finish. Being as they are an entirely natural thing, these buttons, each one looks a little different to the next, varying in tone and hue and striatic markings.
The jacket has deep patch pockets at the front, both of them covered with large flaps. At the chest, meanwhile, there is a smaller patch pocket.
Some hand-sewing here. The chain-stitch below the button-hole helps hold in place a boutonnière (a flower, for instance). The criss-cross ("duck") stitch, meanwhile, holds together the lapel and the collar so that, over time, one doesn't flap around independently of the other. Helpful little hidden handiwork.
There is a single jet pocket on the inside of the jacket, on the left-hand side as worn. Best not to over-complicate things.
The cloth is a very tight weave of cotton — it looks and feels rather like Ventile, if that reference helps — and is woven in Lancashire. The colour here is "drab", which is an (unfairly) uninspiring name for a dull, earthy brown.
The jacket is lined (fully) with a mid-weight linen, which is much the same colour as the outer cloth. It is breathable, cool to the touch, and balances the rather straight-faced and smooth cotton on the outside with an easygoing crumpled quality.

As worn

The gent here is 5'9" and is wearing size S. He has a chest size of 38", and there are reports — neither confirmed nor denied — that he weighs in just below 12 stone.

Makers of

The jacket is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The jacket is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The cloth is made by a cotton mill in Lancashire, in north-west England. Cottons have rolled off its line for nearly a century and a half. Industry-leading methods of weaving, dyeing, and finishing — unimproved in decades — along with steadfast adherence to quality, result in some truly first-rate cloth.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

The SB1 has arrived. I am more than happy with it. The material is hefty and just as I expected it to be. The length is perfectly fine for me — as I prefer mid-to-high waisted trousers — with enough room for a substantial jumper.

The SB1 in moleskin is what this gent bought back in February 2017.

I received the SB1 today, and the only thing I can tell you is that I'm fully satisfied with the product. It's really exceed my expectation. The fabric looks much better than in the photo, and it has a really nice touch. It is a bit roomier around the chest than I expected, but with it I can easily wear a sweater underneath which is comfy during this season. I just wish that I could have the trousers as well.

This chap acquired the SB1 jacket in airweave cotton in November 2016.

I am very pleased with the SB1. Exactly as imagined — well made, a very good fit, warm, and with a customised feel.

So said by a man about the SB1 in black moleskin in November 2015.