SB1 jacket in clay moleskin cotton

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£230.00 — ex VAT

One-button jacket, made in London, with heavy brushed cotton (moleskin; nothing to do with actual moles), a lining of wool-merino from Yorkshire, and horn buttons from the Midlands.


The SB1 fits true to size, and so the mannequin — the most standard 38 in the world — wears S. The body, in terms of length, is short, and its shape is fairly straight, with the waist pulled in very slightly. The shoulders are soft and unstructured; the sleeves are an average width.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 19½
Back length 27½ 27¾ 28 28¼ 28½
Sleeve from centre-back 33 33½ 34 34½ 35
The SB1 is a one-button jacket — that's SB as in single-breasted, and 1 as in one. It is a casual, every day jacket. The moleskin is a thick, comfortable material of supreme warmth.
The jacket has a soft, casual collar, with a DB-style peaked lapel and horizontally orientated notch. It isn't visible here, but the lapel and collar are held together on the reverse side with some intricate cross-stitching work — thereby stopping the longer peak of the lapel from drooping or flapping over time.
The buttons — the one at the front, and the one on each cuff (below-left) are horn, and are dark matte tortoiseshell in colour. Being as they are an entirely natural thing, each looks different to the next, varying in tone and hue and striatic markings.
The jacket has deep patch pockets at the front, both covered with a large flap (above-right). At the chest, meanwhile, there is a smaller patch pocket, this time without a flap.
There is a single jet pocket on the inside, on the left-hand side as worn. Best not to over-complicate things. It fastens with a button and loop.
The jacket has a full lining of speckled wool-merino cloth — a fine outer cloth, in its own right, but here happy to take a back-seat to the moleskin. Given the considerable warmth of the outer cloth, and the not-inconsiderable warmth of this inside cloth, a steadying jacket indeed, this.

As worn

The gent here is 5'9" and is wearing size S. He has a chest size of 38", and there are reports — neither confirmed nor denied — that he weighs in just below 12 stone.

Makers of

The jacket is made by an outerwear factory in north-east London. It is specialised skill, assembling jackets from thick and heavy cloth. The idea is to make something which truly lasts — all highly durable making techniques, heavy fusing, and turned seams — without the result being stiff or bulky.
The cloth is made by a cotton mill in Lancashire, in north-west England. Cottons have rolled off its line for nearly a century and a half. Industry-leading methods of weaving, dyeing, and finishing — unimproved in decades — along with steadfast adherence to quality, result in some truly first-rate cloth.
The wool lining hails from a mill founded in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire in the 1800s. Carding, blending, spinning, and weaving — it all happens on the same premises. This unique arrangement means that the fleece’s change into top-grade cloth could not be more tightly tuned.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

The SB1 has arrived. I am more than happy with it. The material is hefty and just as I expected it to be. The length is perfectly fine for me — as I prefer mid-to-high waisted trousers — with enough room for a substantial jumper.

The SB1 in moleskin is what this gent bought back in February 2017.

I received the SB1 today, and the only thing I can tell you is that I'm fully satisfied with the product. It's really exceed my expectation. The fabric looks much better than in the photo, and it has a really nice touch. It is a bit roomier around the chest than I expected, but with it I can easily wear a sweater underneath which is comfy during this season. I just wish that I could have the trousers as well.

This chap acquired the SB1 jacket in airweave cotton in November 2016.

I am very pleased with the SB1. Exactly as imagined — well made, a very good fit, warm, and with a customised feel.

So said by a man about the SB1 in black moleskin in November 2015.