SB3 in merino-wool twill in dark navy

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Garment

£340.00

Three-button jacket, made in London, with a dark navy twill of merino-wool from West Yorkshire, and horn buttons from the Midlands.

Sizing

The SB3 fits true to size, and so the mannequin — the most standard 38 in the world — wears S. The body is medium length and, in terms of shape, is fairly straight — although the waist is pulled in slightly. The shoulders are soft and unstructured; the sleeves are an average width.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 19 20 21 22 23
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 19½
Sleeve over shoulder 30 30½ 31 31½ 32
Back length 27½ 28 28½ 29 29½
The SB3 is a three-button jacket — that's SB as in single-breasted, and 3 as in three. It has a fairly narrow lapel, and a notch which is barely there. It is made with a twill of merino wool — a deep navy blue — which is of medium thickness and of understated softness.
The buttons on the jacket are horn, and are dark matte tortoiseshell in colour. Being as they are an entirely natural thing, each looks different to the next, varying in tone and hue and striatic markings. Each button at the front has a backing button (below-left). Buttons at cuff, too: three (below-right).
At the front of the jacket, there are two large patch pockets — strengthened with bar-tacks at the corners (below-right) — and above one of them, on the right-side as worn, is a smaller glove pocket. There's a pocket of similar size at the chest, too (below-left).
Some hand-sewing here. The chain-stitch below the button-hole helps hold in place a boutonnière (a flower, for instance). The criss-cross ("duck") stitch, meanwhile, holds together the lapel and the collar so that, over time, one doesn't flap around independently of the other. Helpful little hidden handiwork.
There is a single jet pocket on the inside of the jacket, on the left-hand side as worn. Best not to over-complicate things.
The jacket has a buggy lining, across the upper back, of a speckled merino-wool. This is in fact cloth woven with the same type of yarn, on the same machinery, and at the same mill as the outer cloth.
The lower region of the body is unlined. This is a lightweight, unstructured, travel-friendly jacket, after all. The seams, meanwhile, are finished cleanly and carefully with some navy cotton binding.
The twill is characterised by the diagonal pattern of the weave, which is really only visible up-close. And, while it is a soft cloth, with an excellent, smooth, anti-crease drape, it is long-lasting, too. Has a curious ageless quality, in fact, such that it looks the same after months of wear as it does when new.

As worn

Him, here, is 6'1", just under 12 stone, and is as standard a 38 as ever there was. He is thus wearing a size S.
The gent here, meanwhile, is 5'9", and is wearing an S. He has a chest size of 38", and there are reports — neither confirmed nor denied — that he weighs in a touch below 11 stone.

Makers of

The jacket is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The jacket is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The wool cloth hails from a mill founded in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire in the 1800s. Carding, blending, spinning, and weaving — it all happens on the same premises. This unique arrangement means that the fleece’s change into top-grade cloth could not be more tightly tuned.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

I received the SB3 package in perfect order, and can't say how much I love the jacket. It fits perfectly. I like the cut and drape a lot. And it is gladly and surprisingly short. But, because of the the full cut, it can be worn with a bulky sweater underneath, which is just what I had hoped for.

So confided a gentleman about the Donegal tweed SB3 he bought in 2016.

Just wanted to let you know the SB3 in twill has arrived, and it is absolutely dashing — in an understated way.

Another purchaser of the SB3 in a Donegal tweed — defying seasonal norms in August of 2015.

I received my SB3 yesterday, and it by far exceeds my expectations. It's truly a fantastic piece of clothing.

Kind words from a chap who bought a cotton-drill version of the SB3 back in 2014.

I am very happy with the SB3 jacket. A somewhat "obscure object of desire" for me, perhaps, but I just had to have it. This desire now satisfied, I may not need to buy any new threads for a while, but when I do I'll look to you folks first.

His "object of desire" was the SB3 in a blue herringbone linen, acquired in May 2015.

Very pleased with my SB3 and thinking of buying another.

Encouraging words from a chap who bought a woollen SB3 in February of 2017.