The SB3 is a three-button jacket — that's SB as in single-breasted, and 3 as in three. Funny thing is that despite the three buttons at the front, the break — where the lapel finishes — falls to the middle of those buttons. A "three-roll-two" this is called in tailoring circles, and it makes for an unusual but elegant enterprise.
The buttons on the jacket are horn, and are dark matte tortoiseshell in colour. Being as they are an entirely natural thing, each looks different to the next, varying in tone and hue and striatic markings.
Like the front of the jacket, there are three buttons at each cuff. The buttonholes here are open. It is a working cuff, in other words, but has no quarrel whatsoever with cuffs that cannot work or do not work.
At the front of the jacket are two large patch pockets, which are strengthened with bar-tacks at the top corners (below-left). Above one of these patches, on the right-side as worn, is a smaller glove pocket. There's a pocket of similar size at the lower chest, too, on the other side of the jacket (below-right).
Some hand-sewing here. The chain-stitch below the button-hole helps hold in place a boutonnière (a flower, for instance). The criss-cross ("duck") stitch, meanwhile, holds together the lapel and the collar so that, over time, one doesn't flap around independently of the other. Helpful little hidden handiwork.
The jacket has an in-breast pocket — an internal chest pocket, that is, of the jetted variety — on both the left and right sides.
The rest of the innards of the jacket are finished neatly with cotton binding. The centre-back seam, for instance, which fans out and becomes the (single) back vent.
The jacket has a buggy lining, across the upper back, of smooth, slinky satin. Likewise the sleeves. The jacket thus slides on and off with ease. The lower regions are unlined. This is an unstructured and travel-friendly jacket, after all. The seams are finished cleanly and carefully with navy cotton binding.
The cloth — made with the wool of British sheep — is a high-twist worsted, ergo springy, and with an open weave, ergo breathable. It is crisp and dry, and more coarse in texture than a bog-standard suiting cloth. Great for travelling, too, being as it has excellent fibre strength and doesn't much crease.
Him, here, is 6'1" and just above 11 stone. He is as standard a 38 chest as ever there was, but is also quite broad of shoulder. He thus wears the jacket in size M, which all things considered is a good fit, albeit perhaps half a size too roomy in the body.
This is the same jacket, albeit cotton, and also size M.
Same jacket again, same man again, in a very fine worsted, and worn here in size S.
This is exactly the same jacket as the one immediately above — a light, fine worsted — and also in size S.
The SB3 here is made in the heaviest of heavy woollens — at least as far as tailored jackets go — and the chap here is thus wearing it in size M.
The jacket is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The jacket is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
Local production — this cloth is an exemplar of it. The wool which goes into the worsted comes from the backs of white-face Cheviot sheep in North Yorkshire, and is spun, washed, and woven at textile facilities, all within a small radius around the boundary North and West Yorkshire.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."
So they say
I received the SB3 package in perfect order, and can't say how much I love the jacket. It fits perfectly. I like the cut and drape a lot. And it is gladly and surprisingly short. But, because of the the full cut, it can be worn with a bulky sweater underneath, which is just what I had hoped for.
So confided a gentleman about the Donegal tweed SB3 in May 2016.
Just wanted to let you know the SB3 in twill has arrived, and it is absolutely dashing — in an understated way.
Another acquire of an SB3 in Donegal tweed — defying seasonal norms in November of 2015.
I received my SB3 yesterday, and it by far exceeds my expectations. It's truly a fantastic piece of clothing.
Kind words from a gentleman who bought a cotton-drill version of the SB3 back in 2014.
I am very happy with the SB3 jacket. A somewhat "obscure object of desire" for me, perhaps, but I just had to have it. This desire now satisfied, I may not need to buy any new threads for a while, but when I do I'll look to you folks first.
His "object of desire" was the SB3 in a blue herringbone linen, acquired in May 2015.
Very pleased with my SB3 and thinking of buying another.
Encouraging words from a chap who bought a woollen SB3 in February of 2017.