Short jacket in wheat-colour corduroy

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Four-button jacket, made in London, with wheat-colour corduroy, woven in Lancashire, and horn buttons from the West Midlands.


The coat fits true to size, and thus the mannequin — the most standard 38 in all the world — wears a size S. The key thing to note here is the length of the jacket: as its name suggests, it is short in the body, straight up and down, and with sleeves of average width.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 20
Sleeve length 24½ 25 25 25½ 25½
Back length 24½ 25 25½ 25½ 26
The short jacket is a short jacket. It has a large collar, with rounded edges, which is cut to hug the back and sides of the neck, then fall smoothly — not crumpled, not reluctant, not limp and concave — at the front. It has also been given sufficient structure so that it stands up in any way the wearer may wish.
One other facet of the collar is the throat-latch, which runs across the neck at the top of the front. It may be buttoned across (see above) but also buttoned back on itself (see left). This is, of course, up the wearer. They may even, indeed, choose not to button the throat-latch at all — just let it hang loose.
The jacket is made from thick-thin corduroy. The wales are not what they seem: unlike on most cords, they're not regular. They go thick-thin-thick-thin-thick-thin-thick-thin — hence the name. The buttons are horn, and are light matte tortoiseshell in colour — each a little different in marking from one to the next.
Not just any ribbed cuffs, these — no, these are hand-framed ribbed cuffs of two complementary colours of knitted linen. Linen. They are soft and cool against the skin: a ribbed cuff, then, for the whole year round. In terms of lining, meanwhile, the jacket is fully lined with lightweight cotton (below-right).
The jacket has jet pockets at the front, which are accessed from diagonally sideways-on. They are covered with button-down flaps. What's novel is that these pockets are connected to the internal pockets of the jacket (below-right) and, as such, you are able to grab your possessions from the inside or outside.

As worn

The gent here is 5'9" and is wearing size S. He has a chest size of 38", and there are reports — neither confirmed nor denied — that he weighs in just below 12 stone.

Makers of

The jacket is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The jacket is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The cloth is made by a cotton mill in Lancashire, in north-west England. Cottons have rolled off its line for nearly a century and a half. Industry-leading methods of weaving, dyeing, and finishing — unimproved in decades — along with steadfast adherence to quality, result in some truly first-rate cloth.
The cuffs are hand-framed by a knitwear maker founded 100 years ago. They work with small, hand-operated machines overseen by one person, rather than automated machines, making them one of the last makers still to do so in Britain. It is slow going, but the results always bear out the work put in.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."