Trucker jacket in Bedford cord in marine blue

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Buying

£380.00

Short jacket, made in London, with a mid-weight (12oz) cotton from a mill in Lancashire which is known as Bedford cord — similar but different to cotton corduroy — and horn buttons and brass sliders from the West Midlands.

Sizing

The trucker jacket fits true to size, and thus the calico and wooden man here, who is as standard a 38 as ever there was, wears size S.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 19 19½ 20 20½ 21
Back length 26½ 26¾ 27 27¼ 27½
Sleeve from   centre-back 34¼       34¾       35¼       35¾       36¼      
What the trucker lacks in length — it's cut to the traditional length for such jackets, i.e. belt level — it more than makes up for in other ways, packing a great deal of detail into its diminutive form. The collar, for instance, which is large and full and can be worn just as happily fully fastened as open.
The jacket has fairly large "warmer" pockets at the front, one on each side — though you perhaps wouldn't realise so at first glance, since they are tucked away entirely out of sight within the pleats that run down the front.
Pockets at the chest, too, built into the jacket's chest seam.
The jacket is, to coin a phrase overused, built to last. The cloth is thick, the seams are turned, and while it is a fairly complex little number, it is designed and engineered in the simplest and cleanest and strongest manner. It is also finished to counter wear-and-tear — e.g. bar-tacks abound, such as at the mouths of pockets.
The chest seam at the front of the jacket is mirrored at the back, where a yoke runs across the shoulder blades. From this yoke emanate two additional pleats — just like those at the front — which run down at approximate kidney coordinates all the way to the hem.
At the back, too, is a belt, which runs between those aforementioned rear pleats, and allows the body of the jacket to be a tightened up a little. It's handy if you wish to wear your jacket open, but in a nice and neat fashion, keeping it from swinging around too much at the front.
The belt functions with two sand-cast brass loops, working in tandem in the manner of a slider.
The buttons on the trucker are large, solid horn — dark in colour and matte in finish — and each is a little different from one to the next. They are in that regard as if alpha-keratin snowflakes — such is the beauty of being a product of a high-grade natural material, rather than, say, a plastic replica.
The sleeves run down to a fairly tight cuff — a pleat at the front of the sleeve helping with this narrowing — and with the under-seam opening up a few inches from the end. It's effectively a shirt-style cuff, but with a large button, or like a denim jacket cuff, but with a button rather than a snap.
With things so eventful on the outside of the jacket, inside, things are kept as clean and as simple as can be, with a chest pocket on the left-side as worn taking the total number of pockets to five.
The jacket is lined halfway down the back with a smooth and slinky satin, cut as a single panel. It helps with sliding the jacket on and off, being as the outer cloth has the potential for friction. The sleeves, too, are lined with the same cloth.
Bedford cord is best thought of as "like corduroy but not as soft". Doesn't have the same cut pile, see, which gives standard corduroy its trademark velvet-like handle. Bedford cord, though also cotton, is made in an entirely different way, and is more utilitarian: firmer, stronger, and more understated.

As worn

Not the trucker, this, no — but before proper photographs are available, here is the next best thing. It's the work jacket in corduroy, which is similar to the trucker in shape, but a little longer in the body.

Makers of

The jacket is made by an outerwear factory in north-east London. It is specialised skill, assembling jackets from thick and heavy cloth. The idea is to make something which truly lasts — all highly durable making techniques, heavy fusing, and turned seams — without the result being stiff or bulky.
The cloth is made by a cotton mill in Lancashire, in north-west England. Cottons have rolled off its line for nearly a century and a half. Industry-leading methods of weaving, dyeing, and finishing — unimproved in decades — along with steadfast adherence to quality, result in some truly first-rate cloth.
The brass hardware is made by a foundry in the West Midlands, which was founded in the 1800s. It is the last such foundry in an area once heaving with them. Its sand-casting method — which sees 940°c molten brass poured by hand from a crucible into sand-made moulds — is ancient and infallible.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

Just to let you know, the engineer jacket arrived in the post today and it's lovely. What a nice and solid material, too.

So said a man who bought the engineer jacket in brushed cotton canvas in May 2020.