Work jacket in black cotton-linen hopsack

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Work jacket, made in London, with black cotton-linen from Lancashire, a half-lining of cotton, and horn buttons from the Midlands.


The jacket fits true to size, and so the mannequin — the most standard 38 in the world — wears S. The body is short, and its shape is fairly straight. The sleeves are narrow, and the cuffs tighten firmly around the wrist.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 17 18 19 20 21
Sleeve length 24 24½ 25 25 25½
Back length 27½ 28 28½ 29 29½
The work jacket is a short, casual, five-button jacket, made with a mid-weight cotton-linen from East Lancashire. It is workwear cloth: although a smooth handle, it is fairly stiff at first, but softens up with wear. The cotton yarn provides structure; the linen breathability and a slubby appearance.
The jacket has a front of five buttons, all of them dark matte tortoiseshell in colour. The sleeves fasten with gusset-type cuffs, which firmly grip the wrist (above-right). The jacket has five pockets: two running across the front, one at the chest, and two inside (the stitching running through to the front).
The cotton-linen cloth, here, up close. It is a hopsack, this type of cloth, with a sort of basketweave-like appearance. The colour, seen from a distance, is solid — but because the cloth is composed of the linen running width-ways, and the cotton lengthways, up close can be seen a pleasing subtlety of shades.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1", more or less 12 stone, and is as standard a 38 chest as you could hope to meet. The jacket he's wearing here, then, is a size S.

Makers of

The jacket is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The jacket is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The cotton is woven by a mill in east Lancashire: in a region of the country which was once red-brick cotton-mill chimneys as far as the eye could see. More or less the last of its kind, the mill has forgotten more about cotton than most will ever know — a fact born out by the quality of its work.
The horn buttons are cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain. It continues a tradition in the Midlands, first linked to the area's meat markets, in the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

As with my overshirt, I am very pleased with the work jacket, too. Your things are very distinctive, without being at all gimmicky and are beautifully made. Thank you.

Quick on the heels of an overshirt acquired a week earlier, this gent bought a work jacket in melton wool in September 2017.

After a brief detention in a mountain-top post office, the [work] jacket has arrived and is unsurprisingly delightful.

This gent bought a rare thing indeed — the work jacket in wool-angora — in September of 2016.