Work jacket in melton wool in cobalt blue

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Five-button jacket, made in London, with a heavy melton wool from a mill in West Yorkshire, and horn buttons from the Midlands.


The jacket fits true to size, and so the mannequin — the most standard 38 in the world — wears S. The body is short, and its shape is fairly straight. The sleeves are narrow, and the cuffs tighten firmly around the wrist.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 18 18½ 19 19½ 20
Sleeve over shoulder 30 30½ 31 31½ 32
Back length 27½ 28 28½ 29 29½
The jacket is a short and casual one, with five buttons. It has a stand collar — a Mao collar, sometimes called, or a Delhi collar, depending on your historical or geographical reference points — which starts an inch high at the front, and rises gently around the back of the neck.
Tricky to see on a cloth so fuzzy, but the collar has compact rows of stitching running its length.
The buttons on the jacket are horn, and are dark in colour and matte in finish. Being as they are an entirely natural thing, these buttons, each one looks a little different to the next, varying in tone and hue. The same goes for the little backing buttons (below-left) which support each of the buttons on the front.
The jacket has five visible pockets. First are two open pockets running across the front (above-right). They are capacious; best thought of as buckets for all and every belonging. Then there is this: the chest pocket — by no means slight in itself— on the right-side as worn.
Mirroring the chest pocket, on the opposite side of the chest, are the stitch-lines and bar-tacks of the first of the jacket's three internal pockets.
The sleeves are a standard sort of width, but they taper sharply at the elbow and fasten snugly around the wrist with gusset-type cuffs.
The jacket has two medium-size jet pockets on the inside — one on each side. That brings the pocket count up to six. The front-panels of the jacket are faced with the outer cloth — a double-layer for extra warmth — while the back is unlined: a back-lining hardly necessary with a cloth so dense and hardy.
The cloth is thick indeed. It is melton, woven in Yorkshire — with a liberal amount of hardy Shetland wool thrown in with the lambswool. It is warm, weatherproof, and even soaked keeps out rain. From afar it is a plain blue; up-close can be seen a great smattering of shades along the blue–grey spectrum.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1", more or less 12 stone, and is as standard a 38 chest as you could hope to meet. The jacket he's wearing here, then, is a size S.

Makers of

The jacket is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. The jacket is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The wool cloth hails from a mill founded in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire in the 1800s. Carding, blending, spinning, and weaving — it all happens on the same premises. This unique arrangement means that the fleece’s change into top-grade cloth could not be more tightly tuned.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

Yet another beautiful (and functional) thing.

Feedback from a chap in London, who picked up the work jacket in heavy cord in October 2018.

As with my overshirt, I am very pleased with the work jacket, too. Your things are very distinctive, without being at all gimmicky, and are beautifully made. Thank you.

On the heels of an overshirt acquired one week earlier, this gent bought the jacket in melton in August 2017.

After a brief detention in a mountain-top post office, the [work] jacket has arrived and is unsurprisingly delightful.

This gent bought a rare thing indeed — the jacket in wool-angora — in September of 2016.