Work jacket in cotton moleskin in bathyal blue

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£430.00 — ex VAT

Work jacket, made in London, with mid-weight (9oz) cotton moleskin from Lancashire, and mottled matte horn buttons from the Cotswolds.

Sizing

The work jacket fits true to size, so the wooden person here, who is as standard a 40 chest as ever there has been, is happily wearing size M.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 18 18½ 19 19½ 20
Back length 27½ 27¾ 28 28¼ 28½
Sleeve from centre-back 34¼ 34¾ 35¼ 35¾ 36¼
The work jacket is a five-button number, fairly short and mostly straight in the body. It's an easy all-rounder. It has a collar of middling size, with gently rounded points, and which is cut such that it caresses the neck when up, but sits pleasingly proud and round when down. No sloppy concavity here.
The buttons on the jacket are solid horn — middling in shade and matte in finish — and each is a little different from one to the next. They are in that regard as if alpha-keratin snowflakes — such is the beauty of being a product of a high-grade natural material, rather than, say, a plastic replica.
The jacket has what looks like a typical set-in sleeve, such as you would expect to find on a jacket of this kind, but also a large diamond (or kite) panel has taken up residence at the underarm. This is a gusset, and it improves upward and forward lift when in use, and the rest of the time sits neat and flat.
The jacket has many pockets — some more obvious than others. The main pockets certainly are obvious, spanning as they do the entire front of the jacket. They're best thought of as buckets for all and every belonging — drop it in there, care and precision be darned — and the insouciant stuffing of the hand.
There is a chest pocket on the right. It is quite a large one, as such pockets go. With the main pockets mentioned above, it brings the pocket count on the jacket up to three, though that's just those external.
The chest pocket is mirrored on the left by the stitching of an internal pocket (which, sandwiched between the inner layers, is accessible only by digging around, and is thus best thought of as two-thirds secret).
Stout little bar tacks can be found at all the most hard-working points on the work jacket — most obviously the entry-points of the pockets.
The fifth and sixth pockets on the jacket are on the inside, on the left and right sides. They are precisely the right dimensions and coordinates for the stuffing of mobiles and cards. Taking these two into account, pocketing is thought to cover about three-eighths of the total surface area.
The armholes on the jacket are very slightly lapped, which gives a subtle but definitely-there depth at the shoulder. Not just for show, either: the lapping shields the armhole seam from the rigours of the outside world, prolonging durability, and is a trapping of thoughtful workwear since the year dot.
The sleeves are a standard sort of width, but they taper sharply at the elbow and fasten snugly around the wrist with gusset-laden cuffs.
The jacket is lined halfway down the back with a smooth and slinky satin, cut as a single panel. It helps with sliding the jacket on and off. Indeed, despite the outer cloth being so firm and rigid, the "putting on" experience is as if rendered in Teflon. The sleeves are lined with the same cloth.
Wearing a moleskin jacket is — or should be — one of life's quotidian pleasures, with a warmth and softness unmatched anywhere else in the cotton kingdom married to an everyday rinse-wash-repeat readiness. This is a heavy variant, but still breathable and practical for all months save summer.

As worn

The gent here has a very standard 38 chest, height of 6ft 1in and weight of 12 stone. The work jacket he's wearing here, then, is a size S, and it is arguably just right.

Makers of

The jacket is made by an outerwear factory in north-east London. It is specialised skill, assembling jackets from thick and heavy cloth. The idea is to make something which truly lasts — all highly durable making techniques, heavy fusing, and turned seams — without the result being stiff or bulky.
The cloth is sourced from a mill in Lancashire, in north-west England. Cottons have rolled off its line for nearly a century and a half. Industry-leading methods of weaving, dyeing, and finishing — unimproved in decades — along with steadfast adherence to quality, result in some truly first-rate cloth.
The horn buttons are cut, shaped, and polished by the last horn button-makers in Britain. Relocated from the Midlands to the Cotswolds, they continue a tradition going back to the 18th century. "It is no easy task," claimed William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

I picked up the jacket yesterday. It is an absolutely stunning masterpiece! In particular, the ventilation is very neat.

A happy man in Germany, and his work jacket in heavy corduroy, in May 2020.

The jacket has just safely arrived and I am very pleased. It fits very well due to using your size chart, is of a substantial cord, and the quality of manufacture and design are self-evident. I will no doubt purchase other items in the future.

So spoke a man in the north-west, who purchased the work jacket in very heavy cord in September 2019.

Yet another beautiful (and functional) thing.

Feedback from a chap in London, who picked up the work jacket in heavy cord in October 2018.

As with my overshirt, I am very pleased with the work jacket, too. Your things are very distinctive, without being at all gimmicky, and are beautifully made. Thank you.

On the heels of an overshirt acquired one week earlier, this gent bought the jacket in melton in August 2017.

After a brief detention in a mountain-top post office, the [work] jacket has arrived and is unsurprisingly delightful.

This gent bought a rare thing indeed — the jacket in wool-angora — in September of 2016.