V-neck in cotton-linen tuck in battleship grey

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V-neck jumper, hand-framed with cotton and linen yarn, in the south-west of the British Isles.


The v-neck fits true to size, and thus the mannequin — a standard 38 — is wearing S. The sleeves are double the usual length, to be turned back when worn: this is reflected in the measurements below, and so deduct 2" to obtain the "as worn" length of the sleeves.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 18 19 20 21 22
Shoulder 18 18½ 19 19½ 20
Sleeves 23 23½ 24 24½ 25
Back length 24 24½ 25 25½ 26
The v-neck is made from cotton and linen yarn. It is three-ply, thus light and airy enough to be worn under a jacket, but of sufficient substance to be worn with little else. It is hand-framed — i.e. made by a single skilled knitter working on a hand-operated contraption, How things should be, but very seldom are.
It is hand-linked. This is knitwear-speak for the slow and painstaking method wherein each minuscule knit-loop at the end of each piece of the jumper is linked together by hand, rather than sewn with a machine. Some links are inverted — e.g. around the neck — to further up the textural ante.
The v-neck has a saddle shoulder, which is in many ways the best of set-in and raglan sleeves. The assembly of this is an example of fully-fashioned knitwear, which is an approach to knitting where each piece of the garment is individually shaped and engineered — like a tailored jacket — for the best shape and fit.
The back of the jumper is noticeably thinner than the front and sleeve — two-ply vs. three — which frees up space for layering over the top. Likewise, with much the same rationale, the thinner back section is a flat plain-stitch, as opposed to the much more textured tuck-stitch everywhere else.
The neck, hem, and cuffs of the jumper are all rib-stitch, which keeps them nice and tight. The cuffs twice as long as usual so they can be turned back on themselves. Nice to play around with, this, and useful, too, in that the sleeves can be shortened or lengthened according to arm length and / or personal preference.
Two yarns in equal part: the darker cotton and the lighter linen. The former brings structure, strength, and smartness for daily wear. The latter, meanwhile, dials up the breathability of the v-neck, its lightness, and, with the odd slub and fleck, the intangible quality known as character.

As worn

The gent here is 6'2", nearly 12 stone, and as standard a 38 chest as you could meet. He's wearing a size M in the jumper for a slightly more relaxed fit, and over, if you must know, a vest.

Makers of

The garment is hand-framed by a knitwear maker founded 100 years ago. They work with small, hand-operated machines overseen by one person, rather than automated machines, making them one of the last makers still to do so in Britain. It is slow going, but the results always bear out the work put in.