V-neck in geelong lambswool tuck in rye

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V-neck jumper, hand-framed with geelong lambswool in the south-west of the British Isles.


There are more of these in work right now. Maybe not exactly the same, but not far off, and a matter of weeks — days, perhaps, even — away. No space here to go into details, so please email info@sehkelly.com for more information.


The jumper fits true to size, and thus the mannequin — a standard 38 — is wearing S. The sleeves are meant to be turned back when worn — reflected in the measurements below.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Sleeve from side-neck 26 26½ 27 27½ 28
Back length 22½ 23 23½ 24 24½
The v-neck is four-ply, mostly, which makes it of middling weight, and as eligible to be worn solo just as much as over a shirt. It is hand-framed — i.e. made by a single skilful knitter, who controls the quality and tension of the stitch on an old and hand-operated contraption. A true rarity, this, these days.
It is also hand-linked. This is knitwear-speak for the slow and painstaking method wherein each minuscule knit-loop at the end of each piece of the jumper is linked together by hand, rather than sewn with a machine. Some of these links are inverted — e.g. around the neck — to up the textural ante.
The v-neck has a saddle shoulder, which is in many ways the best of set-in and raglan sleeves. The assembly of this is an example of fully-fashioned knitwear, which is an approach to knitting where each piece of the garment is individually shaped and engineered — like a tailored jacket — for the best shape and fit.
The back and sleeve of the v-neck are slightly thinner than the front — three-ply vs. four. The thicker front is great for shielding the cold winter wind, say, but having things a few degrees lighter in weight elsewhere makes sliding a coat or jacket over the top that little bit easier.
The neck, hem, and cuffs of the jumper are all rib-stitch, which keeps them nice and tight. The cuffs twice as long as usual so they can be turned back on themselves. Nice to play around with, this, and useful, too, in that the sleeves can be shortened or lengthened according to arm length and / or personal preference.
Geelong isn't part of the everyday knit-speak, but is best thought of as merino's even plusher brother. Wool doesn't come much softer. While its feel is comparable to cashmere, it is more hard-wearing, and in this instance has been pre-washed not only to soften it further, but to ward off drastic post-wash shrinkage.
Two shades of yarn at work here — two slightly different, complementary browns in the middle order. And here they are, knitted into a tuck, with its layered, textured appearance. It is a dense stitch, on one hand, but springy and breathable on the other. And just look at it — marvellously textured is the tuck.

As worn

The gent here is 6'2", nearly 12 stone, and as standard a 38 chest as you could meet. He's wearing a size M in the jumper for a slightly more relaxed fit, and over, if you must know, a vest.

Makers of

The garment is hand-framed by a knitwear maker founded 100 years ago. They work with small, hand-operated machines overseen by one person, rather than automated machines, making them one of the last makers still to do so in Britain. It is slow going, but the results always bear out the work put in.