Popover in linen suiting in ochre

Prices exclude VAT, shipping is free of charge, and orders are sent within three working days.

Buying

£160.00 — ex VAT

Popover, made in London, with linen of middling weight (9oz) from Northern Ireland — developed for tailored jackets rather than shirts — and with horn buttons from the Midlands.

Sizing

The popover is true to size, and as such, the wooden and calico gentleman here, who has 38 branded upon his chest, is wearing it in size S.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Shoulder 18 18½ 19 19½ 20
Back length 29 29¼ 29½ 29¾ 30
Sleeve from centre-back 34 34½ 35 35½ 36

Caring

Linen is never the most stable fibre, so the smock should only be washed in cool water — no more than 20ºc — either by hand or in a machine, and never exposed to tumble-drying.

This linen is meant not for shirts, but rather tailored jackets. It is a very fine, high-count weave of very fine, long-staple yarn, first mercerised for a sleek look, then sanforised to remove potential shrinkage. It is thick and strong, and creases less than most cottons, let alone crumpled, unkempt linens of stereotype.
Can be many things, a popover, but surely they must always pop over the head (hence the name) and be alike in concept and function to a shirt. This one has an open, one-piece collar, as well as a fairly long, relaxed body, so that it may function as a useful mid-layer — over a shirt, even — from time to time.
The popover is open at the front, halfway down the chest, but can be fastened, for the more conservative amongst us, with the help of two tiny buttons, which gently cajole the two sides of the front together. Accordingly, the collar is softly pressed, so rolls out elegantly, rather than with a fixed break.
There's a patch on the left side as worn, which houses two pockets. The larger but less obvious of the two is accessible from the top of the patch; the other has jetted entry. They're separate pockets, if that's unclear. The former is the more secure of the two, given its proximity to the large flap above.
Bar-tacks abound on the popover: there's about half a dozen on the pocket and pocket-flap alone. They serve to strengthen all points of expected stress on the popover: not only in and around the pockets, then, but also at places like the base of the neck opening.
The sleeves on the popover are, compared to the body, sharply shaped, with a hidden dart halfway down to taper them to a wrist-gripping cuff. The cuff itself is squatter than you'd see on a regular shirt, and fastens with a single small button.
There's a yoke running across the back of the shirt, with a hanging-loop built into it, halfway along.
There are deep vents at the sides, to help make donning the popover as frictionless as can be. The wider the opening, see, the easier it is to get things over the head. These vents sit closed when the popover is on the body, so there's no unsightly flapping around and revealing what lurks beneath.

As worn

Him, here, stands at 6'1" in height, 11 stone in stone, and 38 in the chest. The popover he's wearing is size S.

Makers of

The popover is made by a coat and jacket factory in north London. Rather than being made like a shirt, as you might otherwise expect, the popover is instead made to the same standards, and with much the same structure, as robust outerwear, with heavy fusing and turned seams and the like.
The cloth is woven by a linen mill, a few miles south of Belfast in Northern Ireland. The mill was built at the end of the 1800s, back when Belfast was "Linenopolis". That it's one of the last mills still standing in the area is testament to its exemplary work in the weaving, dying, and finishing of luxury-grade linen.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

The linen popovers are really quite remarkable, for their cut and quality. I wear them very often, and they are a joy.

The proud owner of not one but three popovers — both linen and corduroy — said so in September 2017.

I received the popover this morning and it is beautiful. The material, the construction, and the finishing are fantastic. This was my first S.E.H Kelly piece and I'm thrilled with it.

So said a man who kindly bought the popover in cord in September of 2017.