Waistcoat in grey-charcoal three sheep twill

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Garment

£225.00

One button waistcoat, made in London, with a tweed of three greys wools from the Inner Hebrides, dark-grey wool-merino lining from Yorkshire, and horn buttons from the Midlands.

Sizing

The waistcoat fits true to size.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 19 20 21 22 23
Back length 23½ 24 24½ 24½ 25
This is a waistcoat, or vest, depending on your outlook on these matters. It is short, fastens with a single button, and has a fixed collar. The thinking with the lapel — which stops at the shoulder seam — is that by not running around the back, the jacket worn over the top will be able to sit more flat and cleanly.
At the front there are three pockets — all of them jet pockets, with stitch-through pocket bags, and covered with large pocket flaps whose corners are slightly rounded.
The button at the front is horn, and is dark matte tortoiseshell in colour. Being as it is an entirely natural thing, it is unique — from one to the next, each button varies in tone and striatic marking. On the inside (below-left) there is a sideways pocket, hidden into the seam between of the facing.
The cloth is a box twill, which is made with the organic fleece of heritage sheep: the black and brown is yarn from the local Hebridean breed; the silver is the same breed, but older (sheep go grey). The weight of the cloth makes for a sturdy garment, which with time will take on the form of the wearer.

Makers of

The waistcoat is made at an outerwear factory in London: the best, many agree, in the capital. It is cut by the hands of a cutter with some 30 years in the trade, and sewn by one of four seamsters whose meticulousness and pursuit of perfection would be caricature were the end results not always so good.
The cloth is woven by a mill in the Inner Hebrides. Doesn't do things by halves, this place. The yarn is pure and undyed, and comes from sheep reared across the mill's vast and open and organic backyard. And no ordinary sheep, these; they are heritage breeds, sheared in a barn beside the loom-shed.
It is no ordinary cloth, either: they are very clever geometric twills, woven on a clunking Victorian power-loom — a proper cast-iron, wood, and string contraption, which is operated with calm and grace by a small team of highly skilled weavers, who either live on the island or the one next-door.
The wool lining hails from a mill founded in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire in the 1800s. Carding, blending, spinning, and weaving — it all happens on the same premises. This unique arrangement means that the fleece’s change into top-grade cloth could not be more tightly tuned.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."