Shirt with button-down collar in navy-white linen

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Garment

£140.00

Shirt, made in London, with a navy and white striped linen from the south coast of Ireland, and light horn buttons from the West Midlands.

Sizing

The shirt has a standard shape — not fitted, not loose — and fits true to size. However, with linen, it is worth thinking about going one size down, because — linen being linen — it has a natural tendency to drape away from the body. For this reason, the mannequin, who is the most standard 38 in the world, wears an XS.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Collar 14½ 15 15½ 16 16½
Pit-to-pit 20½ 21½ 22½ 23½ 24½
Shoulder 17 17½ 18 18½ 19
Sleeves 24 24½ 25 25½ 26
Back length 28½ 28½ 29 29½ 30
What you have here is a shirt with a straight-cut body, medium length, and a button-down collar. The collar is a mite smaller than most, and has curved edges. The collar buttons are positioned high, such that, when fastened, there is a satisfying bulge around the collar — what some call the "collar roll".
At the chest, on the left-side as worn, the shirt has a pocket with a narrow pen, pencil, or scalpel compartment. Strengthening stitches appear on the corners of the pocket, and at the top of the aforementioned compartment, to add further durability should the pocket be in heavy, regular, use.
The shirt has a front of eight bona-fide horn buttons. Being as they are an entirely natural thing, each looks different to the next, varying in tone and hue and striatic markings. The cuffs (below) have curved corners, and each has two buttons (in the image below, the tightest of these buttons is fastened).
The shirt has single-needle lock-stitch French seams — which are fairly uncommon for a casual shirt, not least because they take twice as long to make compared to standard shirt seams. They are much stronger, however, wear better over time, and they're also much more pleasingly to look at.
The shirt is made with linen from a mill in Ireland. Uncommonly fine linen, this. Not only does it drape better and crease less than most linen, it has a remarkably soft and comfortable handle. Then there's its appearance: a flecked base of navy blue linen, with a faint white double-stripe dotted through it.

As worn

The gent here is 5'9" and is wearing size S. He has a chest size of 38", and there are reports — neither confirmed nor denied — that he weighs in just below 12 stone.

Makers of

The shirt is made by a shirt-maker in north London. They make shirts and only shirts all day, every day, and so have developed something of a knack for it. They make with time-consuming but strong single-needle lock-stitch seams, and with an out-of-vogue dedication to older "how shirts used to be made" contraptions.
The linen is made by a small mill on the south coast of Ireland. The reason this stuff sits so high above the run of common linen is the exceptional quality of yarn, the unique family weaving patterns, and the rigorous finishing — softening, scouring, and tumbling — undertaken when the cloth leaves the loom.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

I’ve been using this shirt a lot, and I must say it’s outstanding, I really like it. The details in the workmanship are truly amazing, from the stitching to how well the buttons are sewn on. It makes me value the whole garment.

Spoken by a gent who purchased the shirt in desert cotton in the summer of 2017.

I just received my shirt, and I absolutely love it. It makes me wonder why I waited so long to give your wares a try. I will almost certainly be sending more business your way in the future. Thanks very much for the fast shipping as well.

Kind words from a gent who bought the shirt in desert cotton-linen in March 2017.

I don't know if I just got lucky or if you folks really know how to make your shirts (I'm inclined to believe the latter) but this is the perfect compromise between freedom of movement and a slim fit in the chest and the shoulders.

So emailed a man in response to the oxford shirt he purchased back in October 2014.

I received the shirts and they're all very impressive. Especially the desert cotton was a pleasant surprise, definitely something that has to be seen in person. The fit is spot on as well. Now I know my size I will definitely be ordering again. Thanks for the wonderful transaction.

This chap purchased three shirts, in three cloths, in August 2017.

I just received the shirt this afternoon. Worth waiting for it. The cloth is soft; the cut not too slim: a perfect casual shirt.

As said by a man in France on the second day of the year 2016.

Wow — it's just beautiful. It is so, so lovely. I'm thrilled.

A lady said this on buying a desert cotton shirt for her better half, Christmas 2016.

Just writing to say "thank you" for the delivery of the [trousers and] shirt. I deeply appreciate the thought and effort that goes into creating the garments. I look forward to being a customer of yours for many more years to come.

Nice words by a man back in October 2015.