Shirt with granddad collar in desert cotton in grey

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Shirt, made in London, with a substantial (7oz) cotton from a mill in Lancashire — blended with a touch of linen to introduce an earthy levity — and with horn buttons from the West Midlands.


The shirt fits true to size. The body is slim, and the sleeves taper to a very tight cuff. The mannequin is a 38 — the most standard 38 in the whole world — and is thus wearing size S.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Pit-to-pit 19 20 21 22 23
Collar 15 15½ 16 16½ 17
Shoulder 17¾ 18¼ 18¾ 19¼ 19¾
Back length 30 30¼ 30½ 30¾ 31
Sleeve from   centre-back 34       34½       35       35½       36      


The cloth is a mix of cotton and linen. And, since linen can never be fully trusted, the shirt should be washed at no more than 20ºc in the machine — and never, ever tumble-dried — or by hand at a similarly sensible temperature.

The shirt is intended to be worn tucked or untucked. That's both. It has a fitted shape, so when tucked in, it rolls tidily into the trouser — but it is also casual, so when untucked it won't look like you've stepped out in an office shirt. It is a standard length: falling a couple of inches below the belt-line on most people.
The shirt has a "granddad collar" — which is to say, a collar stand, but no actual collar. Quite why it is named for the father of a mother or father is unknown, but it is something that can be made to look smart or casual, depending largely upon whether the top button is fastened or, indeed, unfastened.
The shirt has a front of six horn buttons — each of them, in their own natural way, different from one to the next. Meanwhile, every significant seam on the shirt is what's known as a single-needle, lock-stitch, French seam. They take twice as long as standard seams, but look nicer, wear better, and last longer.
The shirt has a chest pocket, with a narrow section on the inside-edge — for a pen, pencil, or chip fork, say — which is established with a long bar-tack. Bar-tacks also appear at the top corners of the pocket, for great strength, as well as several other parts of the shirt subject to the most wear and tear.
The cuffs of the shirt are very tight, and they fasten with a single button. The corner of them is gently curved, echoing the collar.
This is desert cotton, which is actually 80% cotton with 20% linen — hence its streaky, slubby appearance. And it is impressive stuff. Thick. Light. Breathable. Dry. Hard-wearing and abrasion-proof. When new, crisp and rigid; when washed, softer and softer and softer; over time holding the shape of the wearer.

As worn

The chap here is 6'1" and a hair above 11 stone, and as standard a 38 in the chest chest as you could hope to meet. He's thus wearing the shirt in size S, and it seems to suit him just right.
Same gent, same shirt, but a different colour.
Same shirt again, and the same fellow — only with a collar, which in the grand scheme of things is neither here nor there.

Makers of

The shirt is made by a shirt-maker in north London. They make shirts and only shirts all day, every day, and so have developed something of a knack for it. They make with time-consuming but strong single-needle lock-stitch seams, and with an out-of-vogue dedication to older "how shirts used to be made" contraptions.
The cloth is woven by a mill in east Lancashire: in a region of the country which was once red-brick cotton-mill chimneys as far as the eye could see. More or less the last of its kind, the mill has forgotten more about cotton than most will ever know — a fact born out by the quality of its work.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

Some words to tell you about the shirts I just received. They are simply beautiful and amazing with a great manufacturing quality. And very comfortable to wear.

This chap, in France, purchased a shirt in merino wool and a shirt in cotton in March 2019.

Just a quick message to say I picked up the shirt from the post office today and all I can say is: wow. The material is unlike any I have felt before: you have surpassed yourselves with this one! An incredible shirt. I'm extremely pleased with it. Thanks for the recommendation. I think it may well be the most comfortable piece of clothing I've ever worn.

This gentleman, living in Finland, picked up the shirt in superfine merino in March 2019.

I have spent the day speculating on which descriptive superlative to apply to the shirt that has arrived safely here — and I think delightful is the best word. But wonderful and beautiful apply as well. And the cloth itself is amazing.

Kind words from a kind lady in Denmark, who purchased a shirt in superfine merino hopsack in March 2019.

I’ve been using this shirt a lot, and I must say it’s outstanding, I really like it. The details in the workmanship are truly amazing, from the stitching to how well the buttons are sewn on. It makes me value the whole garment.

Spoken by a gent who purchased the shirt in desert cotton in the summer of 2017.

I just received my shirt, and I absolutely love it. It makes me wonder why I waited so long to give your wares a try. I will almost certainly be sending more business your way in the future. Thanks very much for the fast shipping as well.

Kind words from a gentleman who bought the shirt in desert cotton back in March 2017.

I don't know if I just got lucky or if you folks really know how to make your shirts (I'm inclined to believe the latter) but this is the perfect compromise between freedom of movement and a slim fit in the chest and the shoulders.

So emailed a man in response to the oxford shirt he purchased back in October 2014.

I received the shirts and they're all very impressive. Especially the desert cotton was a pleasant surprise, definitely something that has to be seen in person. The fit is spot on as well. Now I know my size I will definitely be ordering again. Thanks for the wonderful transaction.

This chap purchased three shirts, in three cloths, in August 2017.

I just received the shirt this afternoon. Worth waiting for it. The cloth is soft; the cut not too slim: a perfect casual shirt.

As said by a man in France on the second day of the year 2016.

Wow — it's just beautiful. It is so, so lovely. I'm thrilled.

A lady said this on buying a desert cotton shirt for her better half, Christmas 2016.

Just writing to say "thank you" for the delivery of the [trousers and] shirt. I deeply appreciate the thought and effort that goes into creating the garments. I look forward to being a customer of yours for many more years to come.

Nice words by a man back in October 2015.