Shirt with granddad collar in linen in lead grey

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Garment

£140.00

Shirt with short sleeves, made in London, with grey tailoring linen woven in Northern Ireland, and dark horn buttons from the West Midlands.

Sizing

The shirt fits half a size larger than normal on account of being linen — with its natural tendency to kick away from the body — and so the mannequin here, a 38, is wearing a size XS.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Collar 15 15½ 16 16½ 17
Pit-to-pit 19 20 21 22 23
Shoulder 17½ 18 18½ 19 19½
Sleeve over shoulder 21½ 22 22½ 23 23½
Back length 29½ 30 30½ 31 31½
The shirt has a "granddad collar" — which is to say, a collar stand, but no actual collar. Quite why it is named for the father of a mother or father is unknown, but it is something that can be made to look smart or casual, depending largely upon whether the top button is fastened or, indeed, unfastened.
The shirt is intended to be worn tucked or untucked. Either. That's the whole idea. It has a fitted shape, so tucked in, it rolls tidily into trousers — but it is also casual, so when untucked it won't look like you're wearing an office shirt. Length is standard: falling a few inches below the belt-line on most people.
The shirt has a front of six horn buttons. Being as horn is a natural material, each of these buttons looks different to the next. Every significant seam is a single-needle lock-stitch French seam. They take twice as long as standard seams, but are nicer to look at, wear better, and are much more durable.
The shirt has a chest pocket, with a pencil compartment established with a long bar-tack. Bar-tacks also appear at the top corners of the pocket, making it reassuringly strong. They appear elsewhere, too — such as at the side-seam, about an inch from the hem, where the body splits into two.
What you have here is linen used ordinarily to make suits. Over-qualified, really, then, to be used for a shirt. It is woven with long-staple linen yarn, is mercerised to really smooth its surface, then sanforised to impart a subtle, lustrous sheen. For linen, it doesn't much crease, and has a good, weighty drape.

As worn

The gent here is 6'1", more or less 12 stone, and as standard a 38 as you could hope to meet. The shirt he's wearing here, then, is size S. A relaxed fit, though, as you can see, and a size down would be in order if he wanted a slimmer fit.

Makers of

The shirt is made by a shirt-maker in north London. They make shirts and only shirts all day, every day, and so have developed something of a knack for it. They make with time-consuming but strong single-needle lock-stitch seams, and with an out-of-vogue dedication to older "how shirts used to be made" contraptions.
The cloth is woven by a linen mill, a few miles south of Belfast in Northern Ireland. The mill was built at the end of the 1800s, back when Belfast was "Linenopolis". That it's one of the last mills still standing in the area is testament to its exemplary work in the weaving, dying, and finishing of luxury-grade linen.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

I’ve been using this shirt a lot, and I must say it’s outstanding, I really like it. The details in the workmanship are truly amazing, from the stitching to how well the buttons are sewn on. It makes me value the whole garment.

Spoken by a gent who purchased the shirt in desert cotton in the summer of 2017.

I just received my shirt, and I absolutely love it. It makes me wonder why I waited so long to give your wares a try. I will almost certainly be sending more business your way in the future. Thanks very much for the fast shipping as well.

Kind words from a gent who bought the shirt in desert cotton-linen in March 2017.

I don't know if I just got lucky or if you folks really know how to make your shirts (I'm inclined to believe the latter) but this is the perfect compromise between freedom of movement and a slim fit in the chest and the shoulders.

So emailed a man in response to the oxford shirt he purchased back in October 2014.

I received the shirts and they're all very impressive. Especially the desert cotton was a pleasant surprise, definitely something that has to be seen in person. The fit is spot on as well. Now I know my size I will definitely be ordering again. Thanks for the wonderful transaction.

This chap purchased three shirts, in three cloths, in August 2017.

I just received the shirt this afternoon. Worth waiting for it. The cloth is soft; the cut not too slim: a perfect casual shirt.

As said by a man in France on the second day of the year 2016.

Wow — it's just beautiful. It is so, so lovely. I'm thrilled.

A lady said this on buying a desert cotton shirt for her better half, Christmas 2016.

Just writing to say "thank you" for the delivery of the [trousers and] shirt. I deeply appreciate the thought and effort that goes into creating the garments. I look forward to being a customer of yours for many more years to come.

Nice words by a man back in October 2015.