Shirt with Kelly collar in blue melange cotton

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Buying

£140.00

Shirt with a button and loop collar, made in London, with melange cotton from Lancashire, and dark horn buttons from the Midlands.

Sizing

The shirt fits true to size, and thus the mannequin — the most standard 38 chest in all the world — wears size S. The shirt is cut in a relaxed, casual way, and is best worn untucked.

XS S M L XL
To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Collar 14½ 15 15½ 16 16½
Pit-to-pit 20½ 21½ 22½ 23½ 24½
Shoulder 17 17½ 18 18½ 19
Sleeves 24 24½ 25 25½ 26
Back length 28½ 28½ 29 29½ 30
The Kelly collar is the name given to a collar with curved points, which fastens with a small tab and loop. Like a tie-pin, it pulls the collar-points together, creating a collar roll. The collar may be worn fully done-up, or undone, or even with the collar fastened but the top button of the shirt undone (as above).
On the left-side as worn, the shirt has a chest pocket of medium-to-large size. The pocket has a pen, pencil, or scalpel compartment, which is established with a simple, single bartack (see right). Such stitches also appear at the top corners of the pocket, helping to make it a little more strong and durable.
The shirt has a front of eight bona-fide horn buttons. Being as they are an entirely natural thing, each looks different to the next, varying in tone and hue and striatic markings. The cuffs (below) have curved corners, and each has two buttons (in the image below, the tightest of these buttons is fastened).
The shirt has single-needle lock-stitch French seams — which are fairly uncommon for a casual shirt, not least because they take twice as long to make compared to standard shirt seams. They are much stronger, however, wear better over time, and they're also much more pleasingly to look at.
The shirt is made with a type of cotton woven in East Lancashire. The brief to the mill was, "Please weave a cotton that is very soft, fairly thick, and which has a flecked melange appearance." The result is a cloth of real substance, which is comfortable to wear, and — being as it is pre-shrunk — very easy to care for.

As worn

The gent here is 5'9" and he is wearing a size S. He has a chest size of 38", and there are reports — neither confirmed nor denied — that he weighs in a touch over 11 stone.

Makers of

The shirt is made by a shirt-maker in north London. They make shirts and only shirts all day, every day, and so have developed something of a knack for it. They make with time-consuming but strong single-needle lock-stitch seams, and with an out-of-vogue dedication to older "how shirts used to be made" contraptions.
The cloth is woven by a mill in east Lancashire: in a region of the country which was once red-brick cotton-mill chimneys as far as the eye could see. More or less the last of its kind, the mill has forgotten more about cotton than most will ever know — a fact born out by the quality of its work.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

Some words to tell you about the shirts I just received. They are simply beautiful and amazing with a great manufacturing quality. And very comfortable to wear.

This chap, in France, purchased a shirt in merino wool and a shirt in cotton in March 2019.

Just a quick message to say I picked up the shirt from the post office today and all I can say is: wow. The material is unlike any I have felt before: you have surpassed yourselves with this one! An incredible shirt. I'm extremely pleased with it. Thanks for the recommendation. I think it may well be the most comfortable piece of clothing I've ever worn.

This gentleman, living in Finland, picked up the shirt in superfine merino in March 2019.

I have spent the day speculating on which descriptive superlative to apply to the shirt that has arrived safely here — and I think delightful is the best word. But wonderful and beautiful apply as well. And the cloth itself is amazing.

Kind words from a kind lady in Denmark, who purchased a shirt in superfine merino hopsack in March 2019.

I’ve been using this shirt a lot, and I must say it’s outstanding, I really like it. The details in the workmanship are truly amazing, from the stitching to how well the buttons are sewn on. It makes me value the whole garment.

Spoken by a gent who purchased the shirt in desert cotton in the summer of 2017.

I just received my shirt, and I absolutely love it. It makes me wonder why I waited so long to give your wares a try. I will almost certainly be sending more business your way in the future. Thanks very much for the fast shipping as well.

Kind words from a gentleman who bought the shirt in desert cotton back in March 2017.

I don't know if I just got lucky or if you folks really know how to make your shirts (I'm inclined to believe the latter) but this is the perfect compromise between freedom of movement and a slim fit in the chest and the shoulders.

So emailed a man in response to the oxford shirt he purchased back in October 2014.

I received the shirts and they're all very impressive. Especially the desert cotton was a pleasant surprise, definitely something that has to be seen in person. The fit is spot on as well. Now I know my size I will definitely be ordering again. Thanks for the wonderful transaction.

This chap purchased three shirts, in three cloths, in August 2017.

I just received the shirt this afternoon. Worth waiting for it. The cloth is soft; the cut not too slim: a perfect casual shirt.

As said by a man in France on the second day of the year 2016.

Wow — it's just beautiful. It is so, so lovely. I'm thrilled.

A lady said this on buying a desert cotton shirt for her better half, Christmas 2016.

Just writing to say "thank you" for the delivery of the [trousers and] shirt. I deeply appreciate the thought and effort that goes into creating the garments. I look forward to being a customer of yours for many more years to come.

Nice words by a man back in October 2015.