Raglan shirt in tobacco glen-check linen

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Shirt, made in London, with a brown glen-check linen from Northern Ireland — all checks lined up — and dark horn buttons from the Midlands.


The shirt fits true to size — for a casual shirt, that is, with a relaxed shape in the body, and relaxed sleeves which taper to a tight cuff. The mannequin is a 38 — the most standard 38 in the whole world — and is therefore wearing S.

To fit chest 36 38 40 42 44
Collar 15 15½ 16 16½ 17
Pit-to-pit 20 21 22 23 24
Sleeve from side-neck 30½ 31 31½ 32 32½
Back length 29½ 30 30½ 31 31½


Linen is never the most stable fibre, so the shirt here should be washed only in cool water — i.e. at no more than 20ºc — either by hand or in a machine, and never exposed to tumble-drying.

This is a casual kind shirt — sitting between shirt and overshirt. It has a two-piece raglan sleeve, which gives a relaxed shape and fit. The cloth is a linen of middling weight. Crispness is its prevailing characteristic when new; acceding to softness with every wash thereafter.
The top half of the front of the shirt is a standard button-through style, with small horn buttons which are dark tortoiseshell in colour and matte in finish. Each is a little different, from one to the next — different shade, hue, markings — being as they are a thing made from a natural substance.
The lower half of the shirt, meanwhile, is a "fly-front", with the buttons hidden from view. In this section, the fly between each button with some little, invisible, hand-sewn tack-stitches.
At the chest, on the left side as worn, the shirt has a large chest pocket, covered with a similarly large flap.
The cuffs have rounded corners, and they fasten, fairly tightly, with a single button. The back of the shirt is longer than the front, and both front and back sections are curved at the hem. What you can't see here are the seams, which are of the satisfyingly thick and durable turned ("French") variety.
The linen has a glen-check running through — a faint one, comprised of muted shades of brown. The lines of the check align at every opportunity: with a soft check like this, and with a linen that slides and bounces about on the cutting table like nobody's business, this is a feat neither easy nor fast.

As worn

The gent here is 5'9" and is wearing size S. He has a chest size of 38", and there are reports — neither confirmed nor denied — that he weighs in just below 12 stone.

Makers of

The shirt is made by a shirt-maker in north London. They make shirts and only shirts all day, every day, and so have developed something of a knack for it. They make with time-consuming but strong single-needle lock-stitch seams, and with an out-of-vogue dedication to older "how shirts used to be made" contraptions.
The cloth is woven by a linen mill, a few miles south of Belfast in Northern Ireland. The mill was built at the end of the 1800s, back when Belfast was "Linenopolis". That it's one of the last mills still standing in the area is testament to its exemplary work in the weaving, dying, and finishing of luxury-grade linen.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

Possibly the greatest shirt I have ever seen.

So exclaimed a man in response to the calico raglan shirt bought back in October 2016.

Just a note to say the [raglan] shirt arrived promptly. Very pleased with it — beautifully made and packed with care.

A raglan shirt in tobacco-brown check linen elicited these words from a happy customer in June 2017.

The cloth [of the raglan shirt] is truly wonderful, the design is pleasantly eccentric, and the construction is beautiful.

Kind words from a gentleman who acquired the raglan shirt in tobacco check linen in March 2017.