Proper trouser in wool duck canvas in midnight

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Trousers, with a fairly wide leg, made in London with a sturdy (22oz) duck canvas of worsted wool yarn from a mill in West Yorkshire, as well as dark horn buttons from the West Midlands.


If in doubt with sizing, ignore what your current trousers say they are, and measure them instead. Lay them flat, and run a tape-measure from one side of the waistband to the other, then double it. That's your size (not to be confused with your own physical waist size).

Waist 30 32 34 36 38
Waist cinched 28 30 32 34 36
Front rise 12½ 13 13½ 14 14½
Back rise 14¾ 15 15¼ 15¾ 16¼
Thigh 12¼ 12¾ 13 13½ 14
Knee 9 10
Hem 8
Inside leg 32 32 32 32 32

The leg may be lengthened by 1½ inches by letting down the hem — taking the total to 33½.

They call these "proper" trousers for a reason. They are trousers very much of the old school. They're made in tremendously sturdy fashion, and cut high of rise and full of leg. This means plenty of room and plenty of comfort, and a shape which doesn't ride up or drag when getting up or sitting down.
There is a dart on either side at the front. This functions much like a pleat, in that it puts some shape into the trouser, and helps it more easily sweep around the top of the thigh.
The trousers have quarter-top pockets, which are deep and satisfying to plunge hands into. Inside — not that you can see — they are finished in a clean and tidy way. On the right side as worn, meanwhile, resides a very little pocket — for a coin or two, keys, or a thumb — which is built inside the waistband.
At the back, meanwhile, is another pocket — this one built into the seam where yoke meets leg. Its opening is strengthened on each side with a bar-tack (below). Such tacks can be found at most other places of high stress on the trousers — pocket openings, the back waistband, the crotch, and so on.
The waistband rises up at the back — preserving modesty when bending over, and serving as a grab-handle to fetch things up if riding low. This, admittedly, is unlikely: the tabs at either side of the waistband see to that. They permit the trousers to be tightened for comfort by up to two inches.
French seams can be found down both sides of the leg. Renownedly durable seams, these, and arduous to sew — especially at the grand junction that is the crotch. Their presence on both seams on the leg means you'd have to do something very dramatic — acrobatic, perhaps, even — for them to wear through.
The buttons on the trouser are real horn, dark in colour and matte in finish. The trouser has a button fly of three such buttons, as well as one more hidden out of view for the fly-guard, which fastens behind the front of the trouser to help keep everything just that little bit more secure in the nether region.
The trousers are lined to the knee, front and back, with a light, slinky satin. The way this lining is constructed makes the trousers as clean and tidy when turned inside-out as outside-out. The presence of this lining makes it easy — nay, downright pleasurable — to slide one's legs up and down and all around.
Textile scholars, this one's for you. This is a faithful reproduction of a "workwear worsted" — a category of cloth which a century was go-to for uniform and factory attire (before losing favour to cotton). It is made with coarse worsted yarn, and thus has a dry handle, an elegant drape, and high tensile strength.

As worn

This specimen has a waist of 34", and a fresh pair of proper trousers in size M is just the ticket. They will likely stretch a little on the waist after a few days wear, so those side-adjusters will come in handy.

Makers of

The trousers are made in London by a factory which — since they are so sturdily built, particularly at the seams — specialises in heavy outerwear. Making them, in fact, can be a gruelling task, entailing as it does umpteen more stages than most trousers — at least five of which demand a hammer.
Local production — this cloth is an exemplar of it. The wool which goes into the worsted comes from the backs of white-face Cheviot sheep in North Yorkshire, and is spun, washed, and woven at textile facilities, all within a small radius around the boundary North and West Yorkshire.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

They are perfect. The fabric, design, and sewing are of the highest quality. The heavyweight corduroy is perfect for the misery that is San Francisco weather. And they look great on me: no easy task for a man in middle age. I also appreciated the packaging and the inclusion of the marvellous bag, not to mention the personal note from you.

Happy words from a man in the United States, who purchased the proper trouser in cord in January 2019.

Just an email to say that the proper trousers are truly splendid: surely the most comfortable trousers I own.

Said by a gentleman whose trousers in heavy a Shetland woollen began keeping him warm in October 2015.

This afternoon, as promised, I received my proper trousers. I wanted to thank you for the ease of transaction, the quality of service offered by your company, and, above all, the quality of these trousers. The care and workmanship are self-evident and commendable. I hope that S.E.H Kelly can continue to make quality attire for as long as it cares to, and wish you all the very best for the foreseeable future.

Said by a man who bought the proper trouser in cotton in February of 2016.

These lovely strides: they're very, very nice — beautiful finish and detailing. Now I know what all the fuss is about.

Heavy cotton is what this gent's trousers are made from — bought back in November 2014.

I just wanted to let you know the proper trousers arrived. The fit and feel are truly excellent. I love the thickness of the cotton. Thank for the advice and for the help, as always.

Kind words from a proper trouser-owner back in August 2015.

The proper trousers — I am very pleased with the length, cut and fabric. The letter is a lovely touch, too, thank you.

Compliments elicited a pair of heavy linen trousers in May 2017.

The jacket and proper trousers I bought are part of my wedding day, and will be are very much loved by [bride-to-be and] myself on the day, as well as used into our future.

The groom-to-be bought a pair of worsted proper trousers in June 2017.