Proper trouser in woollen twill in dark natural sheep

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Trouser with a fairly wide leg, made in London, with woollen twill from West Yorkshire — woven with the undyed wool of British sheep — and with horn buttons from the West Midlands.


If in doubt with sizing, ignore what your current trousers say they are, and measure them instead. Lay them out flat, run the tape-measure from one side of the waistband to the other, and then double it. That's your size.

Waist 30 32 34 36 38
Waist when cinched 28 30 32 34 36
Rise 13 13½ 13½ 14 14
Top of thigh 11½ 12 12½ 13 13½
Hem 8 9 9
Leg 32 32 32 32 32

For those of taller stature, the leg may be lengthened by a further 1½ inches by letting down the hem — taking the total to 33½.

They call these "proper" trousers for a reason. They are trousers very much of the old school. They're made in tremendously sturdy fashion, and cut high of rise and full of leg. This means plenty of room and plenty of comfort, and a shape which doesn't ride up or drag when getting up or sitting down.
There is a dart on either side at the front. This functions much like a pleat, in that it puts some shape into the trouser, and helps it more easily sweep around the top of the thigh.
The trousers have quarter-top pockets, which are deep and satisfying to plunge hands into. Inside — not that you can see — they are finished in a clean and tidy way. On the right side as worn, meanwhile, resides a very little pocket — for a coin or two, keys, or a thumb — which is built inside the waistband.
At the back, meanwhile, is another pocket — this one built into the seam where yoke meets leg. The opening of this pocket, beneath its flap, is strengthened on the sides with a bar-tack (below-right). Such tacks also feature at the opening of the side pockets (below-left) and other points of high stress.
The waistband rises up at the back — preserving modesty when bending over, and serving as a grab-handle to fetch things up if riding low. This, admittedly, is unlikely: the tabs at either side of the waistband see to that. They permit the trousers to be tightened for comfort by up to two inches.
The legs have lap-seams on both sides. Renownedly durable seams, these, and arduous to sew — especially at the grand junction that is the crotch. Known also as French seams, their presence on both seams means you'd have to do something very dramatic — acrobatic, even — for them to wear through.
The buttons on the trouser are real horn, dark in colour and matte in finish. The trouser has a button fly of three such buttons, as well as one more hidden out of view for the fly-guard. The reverse side of waistband is a patterned version of the outer cloth: a diamond of natural and off-white yarn.
The trousers are lined to the knee, front and back, with a light, slinky satin. The way this lining is constructed makes the trousers as clean and tidy when turned inside-out as outside-out. The presence of this lining makes it easy — nay, downright pleasurable — to slide one's legs up and down and all around.
This is a woollen of middling weight, with its twill structure — the provider of great drape — disguised beneath the hirsute gnarliness of the yarn. Shorn from the backs of British sheep, see. Hence also this is a springy cloth, full of bounce and no small amount of texture. Hard-wearing and warm, of course, too.

As worn

The gent here is 5'9". The trousers he wears are S, since his waist is almost exactly 32".
This gent, too — the same goes for him. He has a waist of 32" and his trousers are size S.

Makers of

The trousers are made in London by a factory which — since they are so sturdily built, particularly at the seams — specialises in heavy outerwear. Making them, in fact, can be a gruelling task, entailing as it does umpteen more stages than most trousers — at least five of which demand a hammer.
The wool cloth hails from a mill founded in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire in the 1800s. Carding, blending, spinning, and weaving — it all happens on the same premises. This unique arrangement means that the fleece’s change into top-grade cloth could not be more tightly tuned.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

Just an email to say that the proper trousers are truly splendid: surely the most comfortable trousers I own.

Said by a gentleman whose trousers in heavy a Shetland woollen began keeping him warm in October 2015.

This afternoon, as promised, I received my proper trousers. I wanted to thank you for the ease of transaction, the quality of service offered by your company, and, above all, the quality of these trousers. The care and workmanship are self-evident and commendable. I hope that S.E.H Kelly can continue to make quality attire for as long as it cares to, and wish you all the very best for the foreseeable future.

Said by a man who bought the proper trouser in cotton in February of 2016.

These lovely strides: they're very, very nice — beautiful finish and detailing. Now I know what all the fuss is about.

Heavy cotton is what this gent's trousers are made from — bought back in November 2014.

I just wanted to let you know the proper trousers arrived. The fit and feel are truly excellent. I love the thickness of the cotton. Thank for the advice and for the help, as always.

Kind words from a proper trouser-owner back in August 2015.

The proper trousers — I am very pleased with the length, cut and fabric. The letter is a lovely touch, too, thank you.

Compliments elicited a pair of heavy linen trousers in May 2017.

The jacket and proper trousers I bought are part of my wedding day, and will be are very much loved by [bride-to-be and] myself on the day, as well as used into our future.

The groom-to-be bought a pair of worsted proper trousers in June 2017.