Slim trousers in cotton airweave in dark olive

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£170.00 — ex VAT

Trouser with a fairly narrow leg, made in London, with a substantial (11oz) but highly breathable cotton from Lancashire, and horn buttons and brass loops from the Midlands.


If in doubt with sizing, ignore what your current trousers say they are, and measure them instead. Lay them flat, straighten them out, run a measuring tape from one side of the waistband to the other — not along the top edge, but the seam joining waistband to legs — and then double it. That's your size (not to be confused with your own physical waist size).

Waist 30 32 34 36 38
Waist cinched 28 30 32 34 36
Front rise 10¾ 11 11¼ 11½ 11¾
Back rise 15¾ 16 16¼ 16½ 16¾
Thigh 11 11½ 12 12½ 13
Knee 8 9
Hem 7
Inside leg 32 32 32 32 32
Inside leg unhemmed 33½ 33½ 33½ 33½ 33½
The slim trouser is, as its name suggests, slim in the leg. But let's start at the top, where a waistband extension runs across the front — sort of like a belt — and which fastens onto a button. The button is real, dark, horn — likewise the other four buttons (one more on the waistband, three on the fly) on the trouser.
Exactly where the waistband extension ends is a dart, which runs downwards from the waistband, blossoming into a pleat. A single-pleat front, then — which gives the trouser a little more shape up top. The trousers have a short fly-guard (below) which helps to keep everything orderly at the front.
The trousers have slanted pockets, which are deep and satisfying to plunge hands into. Inside they are finished in a very clean and tidy way. The way the pocket-bag is sewn together — and indeed, how it is shaped — also makes it much stronger than a standard pocket.
Round the back, meanwhile, there is an in-seam pocket built into the yoke, on the right-side as worn.
There is a cinch at the back of the trouser, too, which can be fastened as tight as a wearer wishes — but, realistically, by up to two inches — with two brass loops working in tandem.
There's a little notch at the centre-back of the waistband. It is strengthened at its base with a bar-tack, and the same goes all points of wear and tear, such as at all pocket-openings; where the waistband meets the fly; at the base of the crotch; and where the belt is fixed into the back darts (to name about eleven).
French seams can be found down both sides of the leg. Renownedly durable seams, these, and arduous to sew — especially at the grand junction that is the crotch. Their presence on both seams on the leg means you'd have to do something very dramatic — acrobatic, perhaps, even — for them to wear through.
The trousers are lined to the knee, front and back, with a soft, breathable satin. The way this lining is constructed makes the trousers as clean and tidy when turned inside-out as outside-out. The presence of this lining makes it easy — nay, downright pleasurable — to slide one's legs up and down and all around.
The airweave is a reproduction of a cotton favoured by the British Army in the middle portion of the last century. It is strong and hard-wearing, and made with long-staple cotton yarn for a clean drape and smart lustre. Has an open weave, too, for good heat-transfer and excellent ventilation.

As worn

The gent here has a waist of 33" — a most awkward size, usually, but here he is wearing a size M, and with the belt tightened at the back. They've been shortened, too, so are at least two fingers shorter than the in-seam length of 32".

Makers of

The trousers are made in London by a factory which — since they are so sturdily built, particularly at the seams — specialises in heavy outerwear. Making them, in fact, can be a gruelling task, entailing as it does umpteen more stages than most trousers — at least five of which demand a hammer.
The cloth is woven by a mill in east Lancashire: in a region of the country which was once red-brick cotton-mill chimneys as far as the eye could see. More or less the last of its kind, the mill has forgotten more about cotton than most will ever know — a fact born out by the quality of its work.
The brass hardware is made by a foundry in the West Midlands, which was founded in the 1800s. It is the last such foundry in an area once heaving with them. Its sand-casting method — which sees 940°c molten brass poured by hand from a crucible into sand-made moulds — is ancient and infallible.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons made in Birmingham."

So they say

The cords are unbelievable; I cannot speak highly enough.

So said a gent who purchased the slim trouser in, yes, corduroy, in July 2017.

I had my tailor hem my slim corduroy trousers, and she was quite astonished by both the material and the quality of construction. I've used her services for years, and such comments are not common at all, so hats off to you guys.

So said a chap in Finland and his tailor (also in Finland) about the slim trouser in heavy corduroy.

The cord trousers arrived today, and are just perfect. How do you keep on finding these amazing fabrics, I wonder?

So pondered a gentleman who bought the slim trouser in navy cord in July of 2017.

The umber corduroy slim trousers have been received, the household has awed over the material, and the local tailor will be employed tomorrow to put an extra hole in the cinch and up the hem an inch. Good job, S.E.H Kelly, good job.

Kind words from a gentleman up north at the end of August 2017.

The corduroy trousers arrived today and they are great! They fit as described and the fabric is incredibly soft and comfortable. Thanks again; I'll be wearing these a lot — and I am already debating what my next purchase will be.

So said a chap who bought the slim trouser in black cord in September 2017.