Standard trouser in merino-wool twill in dark navy

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Garment

£170.00

Trouser with a leg of middling width, made in London, with merino-wool twill from Yorkshire, and dark horn buttons from the West Midlands.

More of this sort of thing

There's not many of these left, by the looks of it. Still, don't despair. Email info@sehkelly.com and perhaps something can be done about it.

Sizing

If in doubt with sizing, ignore what your current trousers say they are, and measure them instead. Lay them out flat, run the tape-measure from one side of the waistband to the other, and then double it. That's your size.

XS S M L XL
Waist 30 32 34 36 38
Rise 13 13½ 13½ 14 14
Top of thigh 11½ 12 12½ 13 13½
Hem 7 8 8
Leg 32 32 32 32 32

For those of taller stature, the leg may be lengthened by a further 1½ inches by letting down the hem — taking the total to 33½.

The trousers here have a very gently tapered leg, of medium width, a full rise, and are cut properly, so when you sit down they don't stretch all over the place and lose shape. They have pleats at the front to give a fuller shape, and to keep things in check when you put your hands in the pockets.
The trousers have quarter-top pockets, which are deep and satisfying to plunge hands into. Inside they are finished in a clean and tidy way. There are strengthening tacks here and there, too, such as at the top of the pocket opening (below-left). There is one pocket at the rear, right side as worn.
The trousers have a fly of three buttons, plus a one-button fly-guard — or "French bearer" — to help the front sit flat, and engender a tidier appearance. Meanwhile, more bar-tacks: decorative ones at the top of the pleats (below-left) or supportive ones, such at the back of the waist (below-right).
The legs have lap-seams down both sides. A renownedly durable seam, this, and arduous to make — especially down both sides of the leg. Known sometimes as a French seam, their presence means you would have to do something dramatic indeed for them to ever even to begin wearing through.
The trousers are lined to the knee, front and back, with a lightweight cotton. The way this lining is constructed makes the trousers as clean and tidy when turned inside-out as outside-out. The lining helps you to slide your legs in and and out more easily, and helps the trousers hold their shape at the knee.
The twill is characterised by the diagonal pattern of the weave, which is really only visible up-close. And, while it is a soft cloth, with an excellent, smooth, anti-crease drape, it is long-lasting, too. Has a curious ageless quality, in fact, such that it looks the same after months of wear as it does when new.

As worn

The gents here boast waistlines that measure 32", and are thus both wearing trousers in size S.

Makers of

The trousers are made in London by a factory which — since they are so sturdily built, particularly at the seams — specialises in heavy outerwear. Making them, in fact, can be a gruelling task, entailing as it does umpteen more stages than most trousers — at least five of which demand a hammer.
The wool cloth hails from a mill founded in the Heavy Woollen District of West Yorkshire in the 1800s. Carding, blending, spinning, and weaving — it all happens on the same premises. This unique arrangement means that the fleece’s change into top-grade cloth could not be more tightly tuned.
The horn buttons were cut, shaped, and polished by the last such factory in Britain (now defunct). It was part of a tradition in the Midlands first linked to the meat industry of the 18th century. "It is no easy task," said William Hutton in 1780, "to enumerate the infinite diversity of buttons here in Birmingham."

So they say

The standard trousers arrived today. Man o' man — how in the world did you manage to surpass even my most wildest of expectations? Your obvious reverence for craftsmanship in addition to the care you gave me before, during, and after the purchase will always be remembered when I spring for additional purchases in the near future.

Standard trousers made in high-count cotton are what this man was speaking about in May 2016.

Thanks for the standard trousers that I received on Monday. They look great. Admittedly, they do make the rest of my wardrobe look like cheap tat, but that just means I'll have to buy lots more nice clothes from you guys in future.

So said a man who bought the trouser in Shetland woollen in February of 2015.

Thank you for the delivery of the standard trousers [and shirt]. I deeply appreciate the thought and effort that goes into creating the garments. I look forward to being a customer of S.E.H Kelly for many more years to come.

Words from a gent who bought the standard trouser in high-count cotton back in October 2015.

Very nice [standard] trouser, nice fabric. I very much appreciate your idea of garments lasting longer than a season, hence I completely agree with your non-sale policy.

This chap bought some standard trousers in navy cotton in January 2017.

I received my standard trousers yesterday, and I am very happy, as I have been wearing them throughout the day today. Both the fit and the colour are truly beautiful, and it is a pride to wear them here in the cold Norwegian winter.

Comments courtesy of a gent who bought the trouser in a Shetland woollen in early 2015.