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of Match of the day
12th February 2021Pitch-side seats for the back-and-forth humdinger that is machinist versus first sample of the brand new car coat.
"Match of the day"More Draws, cuts, and leaves
17th December 2020If making it look easy is a tell-tale sign of mastery, then the pattern-cutter drafting a sleeve is a live demonstration of it.
"Draws, cuts, and leaves"More The advent of spring
14th December 2020The annus horribilis to end all annusses horribilis comes to a close with an uplifting run of new developments.
"The advent of spring"More Scantily glad
8th August 2020The trend of wearing not much in the middle of a heatwave is one with which the workshop is finally catching up.
"Scantily glad"More Can’t shut up
12th April 2020Self-isolation is one thing, but when it's not so much voluntary as government policy, it becomes another entirely.
"Can’t shut up"More Career change
6th August 2019Year after year of nurturing along a generation of outerwear has left the car coat without much sense of self.
"Career change"More Impersonation of shopkeepers
31st July 2019The rich tradition of world-beating shopkeeping-specific attire in this country the shopcoat hopes to continue.
"Impersonation of shopkeepers"More Single-breasted vision
25th July 2019In which it transpires the
SB coat is but a small suite of high-spec parts away from its fully evolved Chesterfield form.
"Single-breasted vision"More That summer feeling
10th July 2019Soft of handle and teeming of texture, the new polo shirt, v-neck, and cardigan are the feel-good knits of the summer.
"That summer feeling"More Sleeve preservation society
7th July 2019There are many ways wild and exotic to cut a sleeve, and few more so than the Magyar sleeve of the field jacket.
"Sleeve preservation society"More Parka the problem
14th January 2019If we can all agree that every parka is a coat with a hood, then does that mean that every coat with a hood is a parka?
"Parka the problem"More No more second trenches
12th January 2019While the trench coat found fame and fortune on civvy street, all its no-buttoned comrade found was obscurity.
"No more second trenches"More Topical, tropical, topographical
26th July 2018This fabric — from farm to ex-factory within a 20-mile radius — puts the local into locally made tropical worsted.
"Topical, tropical, topographical"More Walking a fine line
23rd July 2018Trousers, here, of the slim-leg variety — this time made with high-count cotton poplin from north-east Scotland.
"Walking a fine line"More Mad dogs and Englishmen
20th July 2018There are better times for coats than amidst Mother Nature's most concerted baking of the British Isles since '76.
"Mad dogs and Englishmen"More Digging trenches again
10th July 2018Work is
not ongoing with the trench, apart from in the sense that work is always ongoing, on everything, all the time.
"Digging trenches again"More Fastenating development
1st July 2018These new buttons: not better than the old ones, per se, but certainly with a few unique, mildly wondrous, benefits.
"Fastenating development"More The alright outdoors
14th April 2018The field coat is ready for the great outdoors, for sure, but also doesn't mind staying in for the afternoon, either.
"The alright outdoors"More Synthetic serendipity
12th March 2018One of the lightest cloths in the Heavy Woollen District is also the toughest — and is now the bane of factory life.
"Synthetic serendipity"More Donkey work
21st January 2018About a garment whose name, from historical association to equine connotation, is so redolent of work.
"Donkey work"More The Kelly imposition
30th November 2017Here, there, and everywhere, the classics. But reassuring as they are, definite articles aren't always the most interesting.
"The Kelly imposition"More Duffle debut, overdue
28th November 2017That the duffle coat has waited two years for a formal introduction is entirely fitting for this gentle outerwear giant.
"Duffle debut, overdue"More Ready when it’s ready
20th June 2017Murmurings about the development of a new parka become more than just murmurings — second time around.
"Ready when it’s ready"More Testimonials
18th June 2017Neither shirt nor jacket, and with at least a third of its surface area covered in pocket, what to say about the new popover?
"Testimonials"More Male pattern boldness, pt. 4
13th June 2017There are many ways to cut a shoulder, and few more tricky than the saddle shoulder of the new flight jacket.
"Male pattern boldness, pt. 4"More Some Ventiles, pt. 5
30th March 2017The newest Ventile in the world, debuting here in the form of the balmacaan, is so fine you’ve written on paper thicker.
"Some Ventiles, pt. 5"More Male pattern boldness, pt. 3
22nd March 2017There's no escaping the pressure that comes with giving a garment a name like topcoat: to be, at the very least, good.
"Male pattern boldness, pt. 3"More Hemp the aged
26th November 2016Some words about a new shirting — one which harks to a time before cotton; to when hemp was top of the crops.
"Hemp the aged"More Male pattern boldness, pt. 2
29th October 2016Who said the march of progress had to be a strident one? Here, the trench moves forward a small but significant step.
"Male pattern boldness, pt. 2"More Male pattern boldness, pt. 1
2nd October 2016About a peacoat which is happy to talk of the past, but respectfully, politely, tries to move the conversation along a bit.
"Male pattern boldness, pt. 1"More A short fluffy tale
5th June 2016A story in which all is not what it seems in the world of rabbit-derived super-soft south-west Wales-woven woollens.
"A short fluffy tale"More Straw hat argument
19th April 2016Hand-woven toquilla palm leaf, multiplied by blocking and finishing in south-east England, equals new panama hat.
"Straw hat argument"More Of middling quality
2nd March 2016Two new mid-layers, here, made with a linen-cotton hopsack from the easternmost reaches of Lancashire.
"Of middling quality"More Caan-do
5th January 2016A colloquial term from the Highlands, the balmacaan is a woollen walking coat which is anything but pedestrian.
"Caan-do"More SEHK-SH-01 revisited
27th December 2015Change comes to us all — including, five years on from its debut, that most unsung of workshop stalwarts, the shirt.
"SEHK-SH-01 revisited"More Fur heads
24th December 2015Introducing the every hat: made by a factory which has felted and blocked the finest fur since Wellington was wee.
"Fur heads"More Relapelling
14th November 2015So long as there's a front, and a back, and two sleeves, it is through its lapel that a jacket makes its first impressions.
"Relapelling"More Some Ventiles, pt. 4
24th September 2015The immovable object that is 15oz duck canvas meets the unstoppable force of Lancashire's water-hating cotton.
"Some Ventiles, pt. 4"More A spectacle frame, pt. 2
15th May 2015It transpires, then, that to get a brand new spectacle frame spot-on, on most faces, takes longer than you might think.
"A spectacle frame, pt. 2"More Eilean hopping, pt. 3
8th May 2015From an island off the north coast of Scotland to a jacket factory off the North Circular: a new linen has landed.
"Eilean hopping, pt. 3"More Some Ventiles, pt. 3
4th May 2015Introducing a world-first with everyone's favourite north-western water-proof wünder-cloth:
L24 Ventile Ripstop.
"Some Ventiles, pt. 3"More The shirt line
27th March 2015The simple things made very well — this time around, in linen, and cotton, and in a very heavy combination of the two.
"The shirt line"More Eilean hopping, pt. 2
6th February 2015Separating flax from fiction with a weaver in the Outer Hebrides who weaves linen while all around her weave tweed.
"Eilean hopping, pt. 2"More An unassuming wardrobe
28th October 2014The workshop — all its paraphernalia and people — has upped sticks, just for one week, to Vitsœ in central London.
"An unassuming wardrobe"More Eilean hopping, pt. 1
17th September 2014There is one issue for which any referendum is redundant: some people in Scotland are good at making cloth.
"Eilean hopping, pt. 1"More The reversible overshirt
5th September 2014The reversible overshirt: built like an overcoat — as opposed to a shirt — and made from cotton and wool cord.
"The reversible overshirt"More Some Ventiles, pt. 2
8th August 2014There is a new type of Ventile, whose name — weft-dyed Ventile — is also the easiest way to describe what it is.
"Some Ventiles, pt. 2"More A spectacle frame, pt. 1
8th June 2014Frames for spectacles — or, if you prefer, sunglasses — being made with gold and acetate, now, by hand, in London.
"A spectacle frame, pt. 1"More Some Ventiles, pt. 1
21st May 2014If it can keep people at the end of the earth warm and dry, heavyweight Ventile is a safe bet for the new navy car coat.
"Some Ventiles, pt. 1"More On crotch-pieces
19th April 2014The crotch-piece can’t help sounding like a joke, but the approach to trouser-making it represents is very serious indeed.
"On crotch-pieces"More Iteration, iteration, iteration
3rd April 2014"If it ain’t broke,” it is easy to say, "don’t fix it." What an unambitious way of thinking. Just ask the tour jacket.
"Iteration, iteration, iteration"More Two new cottons, pt. 2
5th March 2014Exciting name for a cloth, airweave — and, with its breathable holey structure, the excitement doesn't end there.
"Two new cottons, pt. 2"More Two new cottons, pt. 1
27th February 2014New shirting from Lancashire has the easy-going wrinkled charm of linen and the crisp uniformity of good cotton.
"Two new cottons, pt. 1"More Hand-woven herringbone indigo
2nd February 2014The blue-stained trail of farce and fiasco begins anew, with a hand-woven 3-1 twill of the very finest rope-dyed indigo.
"Hand-woven herringbone indigo"More The Dobcoat
13th December 2013Right now at the one-man-mill: the first cloth woven on the first power loom in the capital since the Great Exhibition.
"The Dobcoat"More Out of the rubble, pt. 2
6th December 2013The chorus of button-making contraptions suggests things are going in the right direction in the Midlands.
"Out of the rubble, pt. 2"More Out of the rubble, pt. 1
27th November 2013Somewhere in the Midlands is a start-up — not a new-fangled start-up, though, but one that makes old-fangled buttons.
"Out of the rubble, pt. 1"More Heavy metal riff, pt. 2
21st November 2013Brow-mopping moments at the brass-buckle maker in the West Midlands — all in the name of quality hardware.
"Heavy metal riff, pt. 2"More You and your scarf
10th November 2013Few things will insulate a throat better than a six-foot length of plain-tuck-plain-tuck-plain-tuck-stitch lambswool.
"You and your scarf"More The outer-knit
6th November 2013The ongoing drop in temperature rendered all but irrelevant thanks to the return of the tuck-stitch jumper.
"The outer-knit"More The return of Tetris tweed
31st October 2013Curious cloth, Tetris tweed, with old-as-it-gets provenance, and modern, surprisingly geometric make-up.
"The return of Tetris tweed"More On the road in Donegal
25th October 2013Over to a remote corner of north-west Ireland and the weavers, spinners, and knitters tucked away within it.
"On the road in Donegal"More Digging trenches
13th October 2013The challenges of doing something not wholly classic with that most classic of classics, the cotton-twill trench coat.
"Digging trenches"More Peacoats of Donegal County
2nd October 2013All-new peacoats made from ludicrously dense, multifariously coloured, and stupendously textured wool-tweed.
"Peacoats of Donegal County"More Laying on the lambswool
29th September 2013When autumn gets going, you'll know about it, unless you take to layering with the likes of the new marl cardigan.
"Laying on the lambswool"More Peacoat comeback
10th September 2013The peacoat is coming back — fatly collared and five-button as before, but in new cloth from County Donegal.
"Peacoat comeback"More Heavy metal riff, pt. 1
24th July 2013On the trail of the last brass foundry in the Midlands: an area of pioneering metal-work since before Ozzy was a boy.
"Heavy metal riff, pt. 1"More Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 4
27th June 2013The first, and perhaps the last, rope-dyed indigo-cotton blazer hand-woven and hand-made in London, is finished.
"Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 4"More Anti-craft movement
27th May 2013"Weaving is an industry. It is not a craft," says the one-man-mill, flanked by his clanking chain-powered colleagues.
"Anti-craft movement"More Down with collars
20th May 2013The no-collar condition of the new collarless jacket isn't so much a deficiency as a multi-use, all-season blessing.
"Down with collars"More Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 3
13th May 2013Pattern-developments begins on a garment that may or may not be considered a type of workwear.
"Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 3"More Joined-up making
9th May 2013The onion-stitch blazer: the result of north-west mill and north-west quilting maestro working hand in glove.
"Joined-up making"More Consider the linen suit, pt. 2
1st May 2013The linen suit: a niche pursuit. But, cut precisely, with good cloth, and worn at ease, it has something for everyone.
"Consider the linen suit, pt. 2"More Mac with detachable liner
27th March 2013The seasons have fallen out of season but, to the new Ventile mac and its button-out detachable liner, it matters not a jot.
"Mac with detachable liner"More 100% cotton
22nd March 2013Hand-loomed by the best in the Isles, there's only one problem with the cotton cardigan: no one believes it's cotton.
"100% cotton"More Technical issues
6th March 2013Made from clever old Ventile cotton, the detachable hood jacket performs commendably come rain or shine.
"Technical issues"More Youth and wisdom
3rd March 2013The new three-button blazer is made using tweed hand-woven by a father-son mill in Ireland's County Donegal.
"Youth and wisdom"More Open and shut case
20th February 2013Makers come and makers go, but the jersey and hosiery maker in Leicestershire, recently, did both.
"Open and shut case"More Spinning plates
22nd January 2013About developing garments, making garments, and selling garments — and doing all three at the same time.
"Spinning plates"More Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 2
5th January 2013The start of the year finds the one-man-mill picking up where he left off: indigo newly wound, ready for weaving.
"Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 2"More Off the beaten track
28th December 2012Time and patience are what's needed when working within the bounds of one coastline. That and an inside man.
"Off the beaten track"More Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 1
17th December 2012Work begins afresh at the one-man-mill. Rope-dyed indigo this time; two colours warp and one weft ready to wind.
"Rope-dyed indigo, pt. 1"More London weaving, pt. 4
7th December 2012Wool-tweed woven, peacoats made, and now, as work with the one-man-mill draws to a close, papers printed.
"London weaving, pt. 4"More High-ply and hand-framed
4th December 2012Heavyweight hand-made knitwear: needs museum-grade contraptions and a century of so's expertise to do well.
"High-ply and hand-framed"More Herringbone plus barleycorn
14th November 2012The seam jacket balances busy wool-cashmere cloth with design that on the face of it appears to do very little.
"Herringbone plus barleycorn"More London weaving, pt. 3
11th November 2012And so to the looms for the third, final, and easily most painstaking part of the making-tweed-in-London project.
"London weaving, pt. 3"More London weaving, pt. 2
24th October 2012Making bespoke wool-tweed from yarn of British sheep enters stage two: winding of tens of thousands of metres of warp.
"London weaving, pt. 2"More Two for one
12th October 2012Don't be fooled — the wool reversible jacket is in fact two four-button jackets in the same space-time dimensions.
"Two for one"More Tuck-stitch knitwear
3rd October 2012The jumpers have landed; ten-ply tuck-stitch jumpers that are at once both absurdly thick and incredibly soft.
"Tuck-stitch knitwear"More When wales run widthways
24th September 2012With its wales running from left to right not top to bottom, the horizontal cord blazer calls for lateral thinking.
"When wales run widthways"More The imperfect shirt
10th September 2012The semi-cutaway-collared shirt is back once again in brushed Cumbrian wool-cotton — a notch better than before.
"The imperfect shirt"More Cord, raglan; raglan, cord
30th August 2012Grade-A Lancastrian cord and the raglan shirt: for so long in opposite corners of the factory, but today together at last.
"Cord, raglan; raglan, cord"More Wind and rainproof Ventile mac
23rd August 2012The most tightly woven cotton going, Ventile is by right the go-to for action-heroes and top-level twitchers.
"Wind and rainproof Ventile mac"More London weaving, pt. 1
21st August 2012The prospect of weaving cloth in London using yarn of rare breeds of British sheep: not one that comes along every day.
"London weaving, pt. 1"More Quietly does it
11th August 2012Not so much as a whisper in the past few months — but, behind the scenes, at the makers, it's been full steam ahead.
"Quietly does it"More Spotting the difference
25th July 2012Similar inputs, similar outputs, similar contraptions in the middle — no wonder factories often look much the same.
"Spotting the difference"More Beyond the bell marked 1
2nd July 2012It's still a workshop-in-progress, but the cloth is in, the patterns are in, and, importantly, so are the garments.
"Beyond the bell marked 1"More Two-button neat jacket
2nd June 2012The neat jacket lets its three components — wool-cashmere, crisp cotton, natural corozo — speak for themselves.
"Two-button neat jacket"More Cuffs, collars, sleeves, and yokes
30th May 2012Over three floors in a narrow Victorian workhouse, shirts of unimpeachable quality are cut, sewn, and finished.
"Cuffs, collars, sleeves, and yokes"More Lightweight but not lightweight
28th May 2012Like the Irish linen from which it is made, the summer-time mac is exact in many respects, and in others easy-going.
"Lightweight but not lightweight"More Inward appearances
9th May 2012The collarless overshirt — a union of Lancastrian cord and cotton-drill — has more going on inside than out.
"Inward appearances"More Consider the linen suit, pt. 1
1st May 2012Few get-ups get a rap so bad, but start with steadying Lancastrian linen, and a new school of linen-ism awaits.
"Consider the linen suit, pt. 1"More Cleve Workshops: 83 days later
25th April 2012Built in 1895, the workshop has seen better days, but after three months of rehabilitation is ready for visitors.
"Cleve Workshops: 83 days later"More Soft cloth, stout make
23rd April 2012Made by an outerwear-specialist factory in North London, the pinpoint raglan shirt is made with real sturdiness.
"Soft cloth, stout make"More Cord-inated efforts
20th March 2012To complement last week's corduroy tour jacket come two new bottom-half-bedecking instances of wale-wear.
"Cord-inated efforts"More The tour jacket, mk. II
14th March 2012The tour jacket can be slung, rucksack-like, onto the back. Good for touring — or, more likely, being out and about.
"The tour jacket, mk. II"More Wax and wool-cashmere mac
18th February 2012The dry-waxed mac marries the weather-proof properties of British Millerain with a bespoke-made wool-cashmere.
"Wax and wool-cashmere mac"More Moving images from West Yorkshire
10th February 2012The finest mohair mill in the country, doing what it does — on video.
"Moving images from West Yorkshire"More Export strength
22nd January 2012Fifteen "high summer" garments made and sent over to Japan in six short weeks over Christmas and New Year.
"Export strength"More Four walls and a lid
19th January 2012Coming soon: a workshop on Boundary St. in London. As its name implies, part of it is for work and part of it is shop.
"Four walls and a lid"More Some meritable mohair making
13th December 2011The newest makers write-up returns to West Yorkshire, and a place at the top table of domestic manufacturing.
"Some meritable mohair making"More Bashed-about wool-cashmere blazer
27th November 2011Had a hard but character-building upbringing, the birdseye wool-cashmere cloth of the three-button blazer.
"Bashed-about wool-cashmere blazer"More The made-in-Donegal cardigan
10th November 2011Offers little in terms of details, trims, or stitches, the Donegal minimal cardigan, but nor does it much need them.
"The made-in-Donegal cardigan"More Revisiting the moss-stitch
1st November 2011Makes for deceptively steadying knitwear, the moss stitch — the all-new button-up crewneck cardigan, for instance.
"Revisiting the moss-stitch"More Overshirts in sideways chalk-stripe wool
17th October 2011The chalk-stripe woollen seam overshirt: the first fruits of partnership with a mohair mill in West Yorkshire.
"Overshirts in sideways chalk-stripe wool"More Hopsack tweed autumn jackets
13th October 2011The neat jacket might be a simple-looking garment, but below its surface are one or two autumn-aiding peculiarities.
"Hopsack tweed autumn jackets"More From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 2
5th October 2011The second serving of a behind-scenes look at West Yorkshire’s — if not England’s — oldest and finest cashmere maker.
"From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 2"More Wool-cashmere and cord vests
1st October 2011Flecked wool-cashmere and ten-wale cord on the outside, warm wool-melton inside, and winter-proof quilting between.
"Wool-cashmere and cord vests"More Lambswool stitched three ways
22nd September 2011Some soft but steadying Yorkshire-spun lambswool and three fit-for-purpose stitches make up the Nottinghamshire-made three-stitch rollneck jumper.
"Lambswool stitched three ways"More Making things better
12th September 2011Production: back on track. The first bunch of autumn-ready garments are off the line at a new London factory.
"Making things better"More Introducing the Kelly collar
16th August 2011Take a penny collar, neaten it up, then add a tab to brings its points together — do that and you get a Kelly collar.
"Introducing the Kelly collar"More From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 1
21st June 2011First of a two-parter. Words and pictures from a world-beating mill in West Yorkshire in the north of England.
"From the Heavy Woollen District, pt. 1"More Panama stowaway overshirts
29th May 2011Two sturdy cotton-panama overshirts, with large pocketing, at the light-jacket end of the overshirt continuum.
"Panama stowaway overshirts"More Half-hidden placket raglan shirts
5th May 2011Cumbria-made cotton pinpoint shirts: expertly woven, satisfyingly crisp, and disciplined with a good wash.
"Half-hidden placket raglan shirts"More Cotton-drill tour jacket
19th April 2011A four-button jacket, made from crisp, comfortable cotton-drill, and intended to be worn in two different ways.
"Cotton-drill tour jacket"More Midlands-made horn buttons
1st April 2011Horn buttons makers in the British Isles weren't always so tricky to come by, but now, for one well-trod reason or another, this is only one.
"Midlands-made horn buttons"More Samples and small runs in North London
14th March 2011Not the most prepossessing of places, the workroom, but a textbook example of the sort of place that the trade really would be lost without.
"Samples and small runs in North London"More Spring-weight linen shirts
21st February 2011Shirts made from an organic linen, sourced from a mill between the Pennines and the Calder in West Yorkshire.
"Spring-weight linen shirts"More Wool-cashmere charcoal shirt
6th January 2011The pockets of mills in south-east Gloucestershire are a prolific source of good wools — not least the charcoal wool-cashmere used for shirting this winter.
"Wool-cashmere charcoal shirt"More Moss-stitched in time for winter
22nd November 2010Grey and navy moss-stitch crewnecks for Book No. 1, knitted by a family-run mill in Nottingham in numbers that are comfortably counted on one hand.
"Moss-stitched in time for winter"More Overshirts and under jackets
1st November 2010Occupying wardrobe middle-ground, the turned-down collar overshirt is available for Autumn and Winter 2010 in slate grey and mustard cotton-twill.
"Overshirts and under jackets"More Cotton-twill winter work jacket
11th October 2010The first work jacket of the season is nothing if not winter-proof, constructed as it is from the most stouthearted cotton-twill that north-west England has to offer.
"Cotton-twill winter work jacket"More Brushed-cotton autumn shirts
27th September 2010With summer steadily drawing to a close, and the crisp days of early autumn imminent, the first group of new season garments have arrived.
"Brushed-cotton autumn shirts"More Some real horn buttons
1st August 2010With five generations of experience, our supplier of horn buttons — one of the last few in England — knows a thing or two about making them.
"Some real horn buttons"More Preface now in stock
14th May 2010Preface is a small set of garments for summer 2010. It has been put together with mills and co-operatives from Lancashire to Cumbria, and from the Midlands to London.
"Preface now in stock"More Open all hours
12th February 2010It is no slight pleasure to announce that
S.E.H Kelly is now up and running and online.
"Open all hours"More