Quietly does it
Saturday, 11th August 2012
The times when, to the outside world, there seems not much going on are usually the times that are busiest. Take the past two months. Not a whisper of a new development. Behind the scenes, though — at the workshop, workrooms, factories, mills — it has been full steam ahead.
Lots, then, on the go. Lots of plates to spin. There’s the outerwear factory in heads-down, do-not-disturb mode, putting early autumn outerwear through the line, the knitwear maker juggling none-more-dense lambswool tuck-stitches and lightweight herringbone knits, and the pattern-cutter assiduously fitting and fine-tuning garments old and new.
Among the latter is the development shown here. It and several others have become extraordinarily well-acquainted with Messrs. Kennett and Lindsell over the past few months, and subject to a loop of draping and and folding and pinning and returning to the drawing board / cutting table. Pattern-cutting undertakings have been of three broad types. There’s been the nitty-gritty of tie-spaces and collar angles. There’s been the arcane lingo of 45-linings, recess plackets, Prussian stands, and shoulder-caps. And then there’s been the fundamentals: the honing of front-back balance, the putting of weight onto shoulders rather than neck — apparently the best migraine remedy going — and the accommodating of anatomical obscurities such as the “gristle” at the back of the neck.
Classically trained pattern-cutting, this; pattern-cutting of the determinedly pre-digital old-school. Early prototypes going into sampling this week, and all being well, the quiet-busy endeavours of the past six months will see light of day from the start of September.