August — November 2011
Neat jacket (above) made from a black-brown hopsack tweed from a mill not far outside Manchester. Worn with a lambswool three-stitch rollneck and nearly-black narrow corduroy trousers.
Seam overshirt made from horizontal chalk-striped worsted from Yorkshire.
The three-button blazer is made from a wool-cashmere from West Yorkshire, which has been woven into a grey-black “birdseye” pattern. The blazer has a fishmouth-shaped lapel, an unstructured and relaxed fit, and an under-lapel fastening. It is worn here with some notch-back wool herringbone trousers.
The outside of the quilted vestis a luxury flecked charcoal wool-cashmere from a woollen mill in the Cotswolds; on the inside a warm wool-melton. It has been lightly quilted in east London, and its real horn buttons are made in the Midlands.
Biscuit-coloured moss-stitch cardigan, knitted in Nottinghamshire and made from lambswool yarn spun in Yorkshire.
The mid-grey minimal cardigan is made from Donegal yarn — a merino-cashmere blend — from Co. Donegal. It has a hidden grosgrain placket and large patch pockets.
The three-stitch rollneck jumper is so-called because of its combination of moss-stitch chest, plain-stitch body and arms, and rib-stitch neck. It has been knitted in Nottingham using Yorkshire wool yarn.
The Kelly collar shirt, made from a grey-white cotton, and natural corozo buttons.
Worn erstwhile
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- March — September 2021
- The debuts of the duster, the smock, the DB, and the knitted t-shirt make a mockery of the notion that less (clothing) is more in the warmer weeks of the year.
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- October 2020 — February 2021
- Many old-stagers from autumns and winters past — the duffle coat, the balmacaan, the peacoat, and the donkey jacket — made returns in refined form.
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- April — September 2020
- From the poolside (the popover) to the coast (the boatneck) via the railroad (the engineer) — the only way to travel (literally) during a pandemic lockdown.
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- September 2019 — March 2020
- The tielocken and peacoat found their feet in new heavy woollens from the south and north respectively, while the balaclava, gansey and cooks jacket made their debut.
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- March — August 2019
- The return of cotton airweave from east Lancashire, and a cloth from North Yorkshire that really puts the local into locally made two-ply tropical worsted.
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- November 2018 — February 2019
- The tielocken and parka joined the trench in the big-coats-with-belts aisle, while the bal returned in tweed from a mill whose loom was built by the local coffin-maker.
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- August — October 2018
- Weatherproof ripstop and tropical worsted, the debut of the field coat, and a cavalcade of cotton knits were the talk of the workshop in the warmer parts of 2018.
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- October 2017 — July 2018
- Heavyweight outerwear galore — with the old guard of trench coat, peacoat, duffle coat, and balmacaan, joined by the topcoat, donkey jacket, and flight jacket.
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- July — September 2017
- New textures for what are quaintly called the warmer months of the year — like a two-ply birdseye, replicating cloth of the 1920s, and a Flyweight flavour of Ventile.
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- September 2016 — June 2017
- Angora, peccary leather, melton, cotton and linen with some wool mixed in, even some blanketing — a melting of materials for an unusually warm end to the year.
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- April — August 2016
- Texture, let it be known, is a quality tricky to come by in the warmer months, here in the British Isles. But look — hopsacks, tuck-stitches, and herringbones galore.
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- September 2015 — March 2016
- The heavy Donegal tweed balmacaan made its debut, as did the heavy duffle coat and, indeed, the heavy fur-felt hat. Lots of heavy things, then, for the colder months.
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- March — August 2015
- New linens came to the forefront: linen from the south coast of Ireland; linen hand-woven in the Outer Hebrides; linen knitted into crewnecks and cardigans.
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- September 2014 — February 2015
- Cloth development came thick and fast: yarn-dyed Ventile at the start of the period, and tweed made with organic and heritage fleece in the Inner Hebrides at the close.
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- January — August 2014
- Along came the SB1 jacket in hand-woven indigo cotton, the link-stitch crewneck and cardigan, the porkpie Ventile cotton hat, and a brace of cottons from Lancashire.
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- September — December 2013
- The cotton-twill trench coat rounded the year off, but before that came the peacoat and SB3 in Donegal's finest, as well as lambswool knitwear both heavy and light.
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- January — August 2013
- The first half of the year began with the three-button Tetris tweed blazer and concluded with an assortment of corduroy and cotton numbers — plus some shorts.
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- August — December 2012
- Heavyweight tuck-stitch jumpers, the wool-tweed peacoat made with the one-man-mill, and the debut of both the reversible jacket and the Ventile mac.
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- December 2011 — June 2012
- Early spring was met by the British Millerain dry-wax and cashmere mac, and kept busy with the linen suit, new tour jacket, and two-button neat jacket.
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- August — November 2011
- The last few months of 2011 witnessed the release of the chalkstripe-wool seam overshirt, the hopsack tweed neat jacket, and the birdseye wool-cashmere blazer.
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- February — May 2011
- Spring and early summer saw linen semi-cutaway shirts, the horizontal cord blazer, panama stowaway overshirts, and the cycle-friendly brushed cotton tour jacket.
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- September 2010 — January 2011
- The work jacket made a first appearance in French navy cotton-twill and charcoal wool-cashmere. And, on the knitwear front, Shetland Isle moss-stitch jumpers.
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- May — August 2010
- Five mostly interchangeable garments were made over the middle months of the year: two semi-cutaway shirts, two cotton-drill trousers, and a corduroy overshirt.
