Herringbone-twill indigo-cotton SB1 jacket

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Garment

£310.00

One-button jacket made from hand-woven rope-dyed indigo cotton. It has a horn button fastening, and is lined with off-white cotton.

Each jacket comes its own 16-page making-of newspaper, which in particular documents the winding and weaving of the cloth in London.


Sizing

Standard-fitting jacket that fits true to the marked size. Can be tried for size at the workshop (information at bottom of the page). The measurements in the table are in inches.

S M L
UK 38.0 40.0 42.0
EU 48.0 50.0 52.0
Pit-to-pit 19.0 20.0 21.0
Shoulder 16.5 17.5 19.0
Sleeves 24.0 24.5 25.5
Body length 27.0 27.5 28.0
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles

The blazer is made from rope-dyed indigo cotton, hand-woven by a mill in London. Rope-dying is the most exhaustive way to dye cloth: the cotton is dipped again and again in indigo dye until saturated to its core. Because of this, it is cotton full of colour, and that will age well over time.
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles

Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
The cloth is a hand-woven twill of indigo and off-white cotton yarn. One of the joys of hand-woven cloth is that it tends to have a loose weave, making it breathable and crease-resistant. Though thick, it drapes tremendously well, and can be balled up for days on end and yet emerge entirely unruffled.

The undersides of the pocket-flaps are faced with the reverse of the cloth; herringbone pattern inverted. Just visible on the right are the tool slots, which lie nested inside the right-side pocket. The slots are useful for compartmentalising things while keeping pockets ready for the plunging of hands.
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles

Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Bar-tacks (left) are used to strengthen most if not all of the stress-points on the jacket. Few things are so reassuring in life as a well-placed bar-tack. Matching the one-button fastening at the front is a curved, single horn button fastening at the cuff (below-left).

Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles

The jacket is fully lined with soft, off-white cotton (right) and has two internal pipe-pockets (one of them above-right). One of these pockets, like the underside of pocket flaps on the outside of the jacket, uses the reverse of the indigo cloth. Both of these internal pockets have a button-loop fastening.
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles

Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Each jacket comes with its own 16-page making-of newspaper, documenting to excruciating depth its making — with particular focus on the winding and weaving of the hand-woven rope-dyed herringbone indigo at the one-man-mill in north-east London.

As worn

The chap here is 5ft 8in (172.5cm) and wears a size small.
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles

Making of

Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
The cloth is rope-dyed indigo cotton hand-woven in London. Word has it that rope-dying is the best-possible way to dye cotton — giving deeper and better uniformity of colour — and is so-called because the cotton is are entwined into ropes, and then dipped over and over in vats of indigo dye.
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Preparation for weaving begins, as it always does, with the winding of the warp. The warp is the mid-blue indigo that runs through the cloth. The one-man-mill winds enough yarn for 40 metres of cloth; the yarn running from dozens of individual creels and onto the warping mill.
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles
Once the warp is ready, the next stage is to prepare the weft, which is a darker shade of indigo. The cloth can then be woven on a 19th-century Hattersley Loom; the sort of contraption typically used to weave tweed, and thus modified to account for the peculiarities of cotton.
The pattern is developed with the broad idea of workwear — but workwear made for work today, rather than that of 19th-century continental cabbage-pickers. As such, it is cut to offer more movement than a standard blazer, and has one or two functional features
Herringbone twill indigo cotton SB1 jacket    Garments made with the makers of the British Isles

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